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Archive for the ‘Maritime’ Category

SCUBAPRO Sunday – Jet Fins

Sunday, August 26th, 2018

This famous fin, with its durable rubber construction and distinctively beefy shape, has been seen on dive boats, research vessels and in the world’s most remote dive locales since 1965, and it’s still the fin of choice among a host of professional divers the world over. The Jet Fin set the standard for power and durability when it was ?rst introduced over 50 years ago. Today, tech divers, deep divers, military divers, commercial divers and dive instructors, as well as old-school recreational divers, still strap on a pair of Jet Fins before hitting the water.
SCUBAPRO sold over 100,000 units in the first few years. That was an amazing feat in those days and set the standard for dive fins. We took the concept and proceeded to popularize the fin with the US Navy and other commercial diving operations. The fact that Jet Fins have been almost exclusively adopted by the Navy and the commercial diving sector speaks volumes about what type of diver would benefit from them – someone who needs thrust, durability, control and convenience. Its hard to not like a fin that Thomas Magnum and TC used when they dove on Magnum PI. Just saying.

Episode SO6 E11

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-Rubber construction is known for its durability, promising a lifetime of use. The Jet Fins are molded from one piece of rubber which makes them very durable and vertically indestructible. This will cut down on any maintenance that you will have to do on the fins, or the likely hood that you might damage them, meaning you will have them for many years to come. Jet Fins are made by using only one single compound which is rubber, molded in one piece and therefore unable to have “component failure” being as there are no screws, welds or connections to break as happens so often with modern fins. The Jet Fins are also flexible enough to provide excellent thrust, stiff enough to transfer all the diver’s leg energy into pushing the water backwards and robust enough to take literally any harsh conditions a diver can throw at it.

-The Proven vented design. Just below the foot-pocket, allows water to flow through the blade, reducing drag on the weaker upstroke, while enhancing trust and power on the down stroke. Many divers have their pair of SCUBAPRO jet fins for decades and literally swear by them. They are perfect for the frog kick and other kicking maneuvers.

-The Jet fin is also very compact. This feature is a must in confined spaces like cave, wreck divers and piers. The Jet Fins are broad and short, which means divers, are able to avoid kicking each other and the ocean floor.

The Jet fin comes in, black, camo, red, orange, yellow, white green and pink. We can also make special orders if needed.

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-The jet fins weighing about 5-7 lbs, and might not be suited for all divers but Mention “JET FIN” to virtually anybody who has a dive card or has gone to a military dive school and they’ll know exactly what you’re talking about. (I know memories of flutter kicks with them on, are running thru your head)

SCUBAPRO now offers two styles of Jet fins and two versions of heel straps.

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The original adjustable fin strap and the stainless steel spring heel. The original fin with the standard adjustable fins strap is still Made in the USA. The other version comes with a rugged stainless-steel spring heel strap that can lasts forever and makes donning and doffing as easy as can be. The steel spring was invented by cave divers that needed a fin strap that could last in some of the toughest places on earth and was quickly adopted by the military and other professional divers worldwide. The spring can be put on any of the jet fins.

SCUBAPRO has two styles of Jet fins available. With or without a hole on the blade. Each fin includes a pairing hole that allows the fins to be hung or stored together, minimizing the possibility of misplaced or mismatched fins. It also make coming out of the water on a beach or climbing a ladder easier. You can also attach the fins to you wrists or back with the SCUBAPRO fin keepers or carbineer and 550 cord will work.

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The Jets are renown for its power and its durability. They can last a life time and with proper care. They don’t really get sun damaged, salt eroded, chlorine discolored, travel battered, coral gouged or split. They are the strongest pieces of equipment that you will ever own. We had a retired master Diver that wanted to get a new pair as the ones that he had received in navy dive school in the 60s where getting a” little old” as he said. He called SCUBAPRO and asked about buying a new set. We told him we would give him a free pair. We asked if we could put the ones he has in our museum. He gave us a very polite “hell no I am not giving away my Jet fins”. We gave him a new set and he when home a happy man with two pairs of Jet fins.

When you’re diving with JET FINS, you are diving into a long line of history.

www.scubapro.com

SCUBAPRO Sunday- Knives

Sunday, August 19th, 2018

Dive Knifes

The general maintenance of your dive knife is easy and will not be hard as long as you get into a good habit of always raising the knife and scabbard in fresh water properly.

Post Dive care

After diving, rinse the knife and sheath in fresh water. Wash the scabbard thoroughly to ensure no salty residue is left inside, remove the knife from the sheath and operate any moving parts while soaking. This helps remove sand and other debris that may have gotten inside. If not done properly when you put the knife back the remaining salt will cause the blade to rust. If the knife can be disassembled (usually by taking the handle off), take it apart and rinse the individual pieces in fresh water after every couple of dives or if you plan to store for a long time. This helps prevent salt buildup and corrosion from happening underneath the grip where you can’t see it. Dry all of the pieces thoroughly before putting the knife back together.

If you are done diving for the day you can apply a light coat of silicone to the blade to prevent corrosion, but don’t use a petroleum-based lubricant. Petroleum will attract dust and sand. Use a light oil designed for knifes for lubricating and storage. You will want to use a lightweight honing or mineral oil designed for knife care. If your knife does start to rust try and clean it as soon as possible. For very light corrosion, you may be able to wipe it off with just a towel or toothbrush. Again you can also use a cleaning cloth that is designed to help remove light rust marks. For more stubborn stains and rust, soak the knife in distilled white vinegar for about three – five minutes. Remove the blade from the vinegar and wipe it down. Again, a toothbrush will work nicely for removing the lighter stuff. An abrasive sponge can be used for tougher jobs but be careful not to scrub too hard because you could scratch the blade and you can also remove some of the outer coating and it will make it rust faster. Do not use a steel wool, as that will cause more rust to form later. The steel wool will leave small pieces of steel behind that will start to rust.

Rinse the knife in fresh water in the same manner as you would for post-dive care. Dry the knife thoroughly and apply a light coat of silicone to protect against corrosion.

K6 Stainless Knife

Storing your knife

You can store your knife in the scabbard once you are sure both the knife and scabbard are dry. For long-term storage you should store the knife outside the sheath/ scabbard.  If you have a leather sheath, that retains moisture and will cause rust.  You can store the knife outside the scabbard in a cloth that has some oil on it. They make cloths that are treated with mineral oil you can use or just spray some on one. Store the knife in a dive mask box or put the knife wrapped in the cloth in a Zip lock bag.

Sharping your knife

Dive knifes can be hard to sharpen as most have a straight edge and a serrated edge to them. So you cannot really use the easy methods, like a quick pull sharpener, that you just pull the knife thru. You can use a sharpening stone for the straight edge and a ceramic rod for the serrated edge.

1. With your knife at the correct angle, slowly draw the knife down and across the stone in a smooth motion, starting at the heel and finishing at the tip.

2. The number of times this must be done will vary depending on how dull your knife is. But what’s most important is that you do the same amount of pulls on both sides of the knife.

3. After five draws, flip the knife to the other side and repeat the heel-to-tip motion.

4. Repeat this process, but instead push the knife from tip to heel. Knives are used to cut in both push and pull motions, so it’s important to sharpen them in both directions as well.

5. Flip the stone over to the finer side, and complete steps again until your knife is sharp.

Serrated Edge sharping

There are lots of ceramic rods out there so I am just going to talk about one the Lansky rod. It is tapered so it will fit all sorts of sizes of serration bevels.

1. First size the bevel by taking the rod and place it in a serrated bevel so that the angle is the same. Run the rod from the top (side closest to the spine of the blade) to the bottom (the cutting edge) a few times in each serrated groove. Try and stay with the angle of the serration.

2. Knock off the burr by taking a fine grit sandpaper or sharpening stone and remove any burr from the flat side of the serrated grooves by making a few light passes. Be sure to only take the tapered rod to the width of each serrated groove so that it does not deform them. You don’t need to use a lot of pressure with this method.

3. If you don’t understand this look on YouTube there are a ton of ways to do this.

Titanium Dive Knives

Sharping a titanium dive knife is the same as a stainless steel, but there is a difference. Most companies recommend a diamond sharpener. You will have to make sure you know what type of titanium knife you have as some are only coated with titanium. If it is called military grade it should be pure titanium. Remember when sharpening to use a light touch, titanium is easy to deformed and excessive pressure in sharpening will roll the edge causing difficulties getting a sharp edge.

SCUBAPRO Professional Knife

The SCUBAPROs TK15 is the first in a new series of Tactical dive knifes. It is built around a single piece of marine-grade stainless steel machined to achieve the ideal balance of strength and weight. Its surface is specifically polished to let water drain easily and prevent oxidation. The thickness of the stainless steel is consistent from one end to the other, creating a high level of stiffness. This is a traditional, heavy-duty, no-frills type of knife designed to handle all cutting jobs, large and small.

The blade is a generous 15cm/6in long and features a lower full-length smooth-edge and an upper serrated edge positioned close to the handle so you can maintain maximum control of the cut. A line cutter is positioned closer to the tip of the blade to enable you to easily hook lines, plus in this position it doesn’t weaken the blade. Also, a shackle key is built into the body of the blade, a great addition for boat divers.

Marine-grade stainless steel offers the best balance between cutting edge reliability and resistance to corrosion. This can be a difficult balance to achieve on the same piece of steel, but SCUBAPRO succeeded by adding a handmade polish finishing on the steel surface which promotes water run-off for long-term oxidation-free durability.

The TK15 comes with a heavy-duty handle that’s sized and shaped for solid gripping. The rugged sheath is made from fiberglass reinforced polyamide. The knife is kept in place by two teeth on the sheath matching the recesses on the handle. The sheath includes heavy-duty nylon straps for easy attachment and a SCUBAPRO branded hand cover with bungee to secure the knife to your hand under critical conditions.

www.scubapro.com

SCUBAPRO Sunday – Galileo G2 Family of Dive computers

Sunday, August 12th, 2018

SCUBAPRO’s groundbreaking design of its Galileo dive computers changed the diving world forever.

Galileo revolutionized dive computers in 2007, with hybrid air-oil filling, dot-matrix display and a maximum operating depth of 330 meters or 1080 feet. The Galileo won awards for its design and the hearts and minds of its legions of fans through incredibly easy menus, intuitive usability and technology that made diving easier and more fun. Loaded with computing, navigation and personalization features unavailable anywhere else, you simply couldn’t get a full-featured wrist-mount dive computer better than a Galileo. The G2 (Galileo 2) series of dive computers features a wrist mounted and also a console version. The big brothers to the Galileo SOL and LUNA. The G2,s has been redesigned from the ground up, and in the process a new standard in dive computing for SCUBAPRO has been created. The air integrated G2 uses the same menu structure, the same simple 3-button control system, and the same diver-friendly functions that helped earn the Galileo its reputation as the most technologically advanced computer available – and also the hands-down easiest to use. Every color computer is not the same. Instead of using color for color’s sake, SCUBAPRO engineer’s have leveraged color to deliver the best readability and usability available. Color indicators that quickly draw your attention to what you need to know are combined with high contrast, user configurable screen layouts and default color settings to make the G2 stand out from the crowd… at any depth. SCUBAPRO offers the only dive computers in the world that take heart rate, skin temperature, breathing rate and water temp into account during a dive. This provides you with extremely reliable no-stop and decompression stop calculations, even under the most demanding diving circumstances. These patented features are available ONLY on SCUBAPRO computers. Even though it’s a fully loaded dive computer, the G2 is surprisingly easy to use. It offers a choice of screen configurations that enable you to customize data presentation. Navigate effortless through the system via the 3 clearly marked stainless steel buttons. Rotate the screen 180 degrees to position buttons on top or bottom.  The intuitive digital compass is one of the best in the business, and a choice of languages and characters lets you receive dive data in your mother language. The G2 easily goes where you do, from open water, to free diving, to Closed Circuit Rebreather to side-mount tanks. Even your dive profile is one of a kind – based upon your real-time breathing rate, your skin temperature and your heart rate.

KEY FEATURES & SPECS

Incorporating cutting-edge biometrics through Human Factor DivingTM, the G2 comes with a slim-line casing design and a stunning full-color TFT (Thin-Film Transistor) LCD display screen. The sleek fiberglass-reinforced thermoplastic casing offers high-impact strength and good UV resistance. The high-resolution TFT screen produces vibrant colors and crisp digits that radically increase readability.

Equipped with SCUBAPRO’s UWATEC ZHL-16 ADT algorithm, the G2 can handle 8 nitrox mixes to 100% O2, its algorithm calculates true remaining bottom time (RBT), it offers a series of Microbubble levels and incorporates Profile Dependent Intermediate Stops.

Same intuitive menu structure, simple 3-button control system, and diver-friendly functions that make the Galileo so easy to use. Enables a seamless transition from the Galileo to the G2. All accessories are reverse compatible as well.

• Full-Color TFT (Thin-Film Transistor) 2.2in/5.6cm LCD display screen (320x240p). Produces
vibrant colors for maximum readability to quickly direct your attention to what you need to know.

TFT screens use less energy. More efficient than other screen types to help extend battery life.

See as much or as little as you like. Choice of screen display configurations. Customize your data presentation with Light, Classic, Full or Graphical screen options to suit your individual diving style.

Customize menu listings. Use as much or as little of the G2 technology as you need – your choice.

Multiple Language Choices. Select from more than 19 languages for receiving dive data.

• Predictive Multi-Gas ZHL-16 ADT MB algorithm. Advanced Uwatec algorithm programs up to 8 nitrox/trimix mixes to handle any recreational or technical diving scenario.

• Integrated heart rate monitor. Measures heartbeat and skin temperature and incorporates both into the workload calculations. Integration with the HRM Is exclusive to SCUBAPRO.

• Heart rate monitor also lets you visually track your heart rate “real time” to ensure you stay in your individual target zone to maximize your fun and safety at depth.

• Hoseless air integration. Monitors tank pressure plus provides true remaining bottom time (RBT) and allows air consumption to be factored into the decompression calculation. Provides support for up to 11 transmitters when all features are activated.

• Improved, Full tilt digital compass. The best available. Includes half-compass rose and bearing memory.

• Rechargeable battery. Provides up to 50 hours of dive time per charge.

• Huge 485MB memory. Stores pictures, tables, tissue loading status, and 1,000 hours of dive profiles.

• USB cable or Bluetooth Low Energy interface. Easily download dive data wirelessly to your phone or handheld device. Download dive data to a PC/Mac using LogTRAK software.

OTHER FEATURES & SPECS

• Fiberglass-reinforced thermoplastic slim-line casing. Ultra-durable & UV resistant.

• Curved ergonomic low-profile shape. Sits comfortably on the arm and resists rotating (integrated bungee mounts are provided for tech divers). Can also be used on a retractor.

Rugged TR 55 transparent thermoplastic lens protects the LCD segmented display. Features a backlight to enhance low-light readability.

Sleek, Swiss design. The best elements of the Galileo in an upscale design.

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Stainless steel control buttons (3). Accessible, intuitive, easy to use, even when wearing gloves.

• Multiple dive modes. Scuba, Freediving, Gauge, CCR and Sidemount for total in-water versatility. (Freediving, Trimix, CCR and Sidemount modes are disabled from the factory. Activation is easy – no downloading or upgrading is required.)

• Special apnea logbook. Stores repetitive dives sequentially under the same apnea session.

• Maximum operating depth. 394ft/120m for reliable data computing regardless of diving situation.

SCUPAPRO Special Projects

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SCUBAPRO in a continuous effect to always innovate has been working with S and S Precision on a Navigation board that will incorporate the G2 wrist computer to make an attack board for combat swimmer operations, Search and Rescue, surveying or whenever there is a need to conduct accurate navigation. SCUBAPRO has also worked to develop special software for its dive computers and has a military version of the G2, the G2N (Navy). It was designed specifically for Combat swimmer operation. It has an advanced bottom timer mode, which is dedicated for underwater navigation. Like with normal G2 the audible tones can be switched off for stealth mode. It is equipped with a special screen that gives Total Bottom Time, Stop Watch, Current Depth, Compass heading and local time or Zulu time. It can also monitor tank pressure.

Further software changes can be done upon request.

FirstSpear Friday Focus – Short Sleeve Rash Guards

Friday, August 10th, 2018

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FirstSpear’s all new Rash Guard is now in-stock and shipping in a short sleeve variation. Built with a poly / spandex knit specifcally designed to reduce abrasion on the skin while submerged in seawater or other wet or dry environments. Designed for a compression fit that will dry fast and keep you comfortable with smooth flat seams throughout. 100% made in the USA.

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Available in sizes Small – 2X in Ranger Green and Charcoal.

www.first-spear.com/technical-apparel/rash-guard-7189

SCUBAPRO Sunday – Wetsuits

Sunday, August 5th, 2018

Cleaning Your Wetsuit

Always clean and dry your suit as soon as possible. Rinse your wetsuit with fresh water. Its best to fill a bucket/tub/ trash can/ bath tube up with clean water and soak your wetsuit in that so it gets clean all the way thru. You can use a wetsuit shampoos and conditioners, PISS OFF and Sink the Stink are good and there are others out there. You can also use mild laundry soap or baby shampoo to clean wetsuits. Try to avoid peeing in your wetsuit; Urine is a hard smell to remove. Inspect your wetsuit for rips and tears as you are washing it.

Drying Your Wetsuit

After washing and rinsing your wetsuit, turn it inside out to help retain the flexibility on the outside of the wetsuit. Hang to dry on a wetsuit hanger or three to four plastic hanger, but don’t use a wire hanger. Wire hangers will cause the neoprene to stretch over the shoulders. The sun is your wetsuits worst nightmare as the UV rays can damage the neoprene and shortening the lifespan and the effectiveness of your suit.

                         

 SCUBAPRO Dry suit hanger      SCUBAPRO Universal Hanger

Storage  

Store your wetsuit on a flat surface or on a wetsuit hanger. Avoid folding whenever possible to avoid creases. If stored folded it can leave creases and those will take away from the insulation properties. Avoid leaving your wetsuit in stuffed in a bag, or in a hot car, as it will reduce the lifespan of your suit.

Things that Can Damage Your Wetsuit

Hot water can ruin neoprene, causing it to lose some of its flexibility. Sun and UV rays cause neoprene wetsuits to age quickly. Dry your wetsuit in a shaded area. Chlorine or salt water will break down the neoprene. The crystals for the salt water will cut your suit. This is why it is important to rinse your wetsuit with fresh water after use in chlorine or salt water.

Things to Avoid

Do not use bleach or put your wetsuit in a washer machine or a dryer. Everyone loves getting into a dry wetsuit but the drier is real bad for it. (So maybe just long enough to make it warm if you feel like you have to) Avoid pulling your wetsuit over rings, watches or anything it could get caught on. Also just pulling it on can rip it. Avoid putting petroleum jelly on your suit. Petroleum products destroy the adhesive of the wetsuit seams and can penetrate the neoprene making it hard to repair. If you are trying to avoid chafing you can use Body Glide as that has been made to be wetsuit friendly. Using beeswax or zipper lubricant can prolong the zippers life and help keep them from snagging and tearing and it also helps them work better.

Repairing Tears and Rip

Inspect your wetsuit for rips and tears after each use. The rips and tears are much easier to fix when they are small, and will grow if they go unnoticed. Wetsuits can easily tear from things like watches, pier pillions and rocks. Small tears (around 1-2 inches long) can be easily repaired. Tears bigger than a few inches may require professional repair services. If the stitches or seams are torn it may also be a good idea to take your suit to a professional for repairs.

Things you should keep on hand

Storm sure Neoprene Queen, Aquaseal and E6000 fabric glue. These are good to just leave have in a small zip-lock container in your dive bag. It is better to stay ahead of a rip. There are also wetsuit repair kits available that contain everything you will need. If you are deployed overseas and cant’ get the a true wetsuit glue, then you can try a “bike tire repair kit” from any bike store (the glue used to fix a bike tire inner tube is basically the same) and is ok for “field repair” it is not recommended by any wetsuit companies but it is a good last resort if you having to dive for a couple hour in a ripped wetsuit and have no other options, like taking your buddies suit and saying “ wow you ripped your suit that sucks”

If you want learn a lot more about wetsuits watch the below video

Below is quick summary

• Rinse with fresh water after dives to remove the salt water
• Hang up inside/out for drying
• Do not dry under sunlight to prevent neoprene being damage (sun baking) – this one is the most important.
• Do not use laundry liquid to prevent neoprene being damage
• Do not put in dryers
• Do not Iron
• Do not Bleach
• Do not store too much folded to avoid wrinkles

All this information is on this label stitched inside your suits.

Wetsuits

SCUBAPRO Sunday – Z1 Solar Power Dive Watch

Sunday, July 29th, 2018

Z1 Solar Power dive watch

Powered by the Sun, this Wristwatch-Style Computer takes Modern Diving to a New Level

The wristwatch-style Z1 is a good-looking timepiece for topside use. At the same time, it’s a ruggedly built dive computer. Its hybrid construction combines a polyacrylate case with a 316L stainless steel bezel (polyacrylate resin provides better heat-resisting properties than polycarbonate). This gives the Z1 a high-quality feel and appearance, yet enables it to excel in both durability and light weight.

                                   

SOLAR POWERED DIVE COMPUTING

But where the Z1 really shines is in its sleek, technically advanced design.
A thoroughly elegant device, the Z1 is SCUBAPRO’s first solar powered
dive computer. Not only does this eliminate the need to dispose of discarded batteries, it also eliminates the need to find a power source when it’s time to recharge the battery, making it perfect for traveling divers. Part of our SCUBAPRO Cares line, the Z1 is another SCUBAPRO product that takes our oceans and our planet into consideration.

Basically, if the Z1 is exposed to light, its internal battery is charging; whether you’re outdoors in the sun, or indoors beneath fluorescent lighting. And because the Z1 is Bluetooth enabled you don’t have to worry about where you left your download cable; downloading, data analyzing and some adjusting of settings can be done wirelessly.

Simple to use, the Z1 provides four clearly labeled control buttons to take you through the menu system. All data is presented in easy-to-read alphanumerics backed by green screen highlights. The onboard digital compass lets you navigate the depths with confidence, and the innovative backlight function illuminates the screen beautifully. Its super bright white LED light is automatically activated simply by tilting your arm in the dark, using the Z1’s ambient light sensor.

The Z1 allows you to live your life in dive mode, without being leashed to a cord and power source. What’s more, the Z1 is compatible with all of the SCUBAPRO M2 and Chromis bands. A simple accessory change allows you to go from orange to yellow to red to blue to pink to purple to white. All bands match the rest of the SCUBAPRO line including the HYDROS PRO, Seawing Novas, Synergy masks and even our S620 Ti regulators. Express your personality – and your love for diving.

Z1 FEATURES & SPECS

• Solar charging system provides hassle-free battery charging.
• Internal battery can be charged by outdoor sunlight or indoor fluorescent light.
• Power saving function maximizes your dive time between charges.
• Battery can last for more than 8 years before needing replacing. (Maximum life span depends on use and

conditions.)
• Hybrid construction combines an attractive polyacrylate case and 316L stainless steel bezel for

lightweight durability.
• Buhlmann (ZHL-16C) algorithm offers Nitrox capability from 21% to 100% O2 for up to 4 Nitrox mixes. • Provides full time-keeping functions, including a stopwatch.
• Digital onboard electronic compass allows for easy navigation.
• A non-step altitude measurement configures the pressure reduction based on the current atmospheric

pressure rather than using an altitude ranking.
• Large, bold numbers in the center of the screen, plus eye-catching green highlights, ensure that all dive

data is always easy to read.
• Super bright backlight can be activated for 1.5 seconds or 3 seconds by simply tilting the arm (when the

Auto-Light function is set to ON).
• Audible and visual alarms keep you alert to your dive status.
• Depth and time interval alarms are diver-selectable prior to the dive.
• Logbook stores 30 dives and includes a dive history which can be analyzed with wireless technology. • Bluetooth 4.0 Low Energy connectivity lets you download dives to any iOS or Android device.
• Dive modes: Scuba, Freediving and Gauge.
• Maximum operating depth: 328ft/100m.
• Available in a variety of eye-pleasing casing and wrist band colors (see below).
• Will also accept M2 and Chromis colored wrist bands.

SUMMARY

Ultra-modern and eco-friendly, the Z1 dive computer is one of the many innovative, “green” products that demonstrate SCUBAPRO’s commitment to our planet. A stylish design, simple to use, and powered by the sun, wearing the Z1 at work and at play lets you celebrate your status as a modern diver, plus demonstrates that you are in tune with the latest technology and committed to an eco-friendly world.

SCUBAPRO SUNDAY – Mask Maintenance

Sunday, July 22nd, 2018

How to clean your mask, keep it from fogging and store it properly.

Dive mask preparation

When a SCUBA mask is made it leaves a lot of film and residue on it. If not cleaned off properly you will never get your mask to stop fogging. You can search the Internet for lots of different ways to clean your mask. I am going to walk thru one of the easiest and safest methods to do it. With some of the other methods, if not done correctly you can break your mask glass or damage your frame.

Toothpaste or Soft Scrub (without bleach)

Your first step will be to take some toothpaste (not gel) and with your finger dab some on both sides of the inside of the lenses.  Rub the toothpaste thoroughly and then let it sit to dry. Try to wait an hour or two before you rinse it out; however, if you don’t have the time, just go ahead and rinse it right away; there’s a good chance it will still work. You should do this every couple of months to make sure your mask is clean. There are also commercial cleaners you can use that clean and defog.

Put your dive mask under running water to rinse out the toothpaste.  You can use your fingernail or a toothbrush to get around the skirt that touches the lens. In some cases some of the toothpaste can seep under there. Make sure you get it all out.

Different ways to defog your mask before every dive

Commercial Defog

This is the type of defog you can buy at any dive shop.  There are a million different types, but they are basically all the same.  If you would like to go this route, making sure it is safe for the reef and environmentally friendly. This is a good practice as your face will be in there. If you are diving O2 you want it as O2 clean as possibly. Usually SCUBA divers will put this inside their mask, swish it around with their finger and then rinse and go.

SCUBACLEAR, 30CC scubapro.johnsonoutdoors.com/accessories/mask-accessories/scubaclear-30cc

Baby Shampoo and dishwashing soap

This is a very economical choice in the world of defogging your mask.  Many dive boats will carry an empty plastic water bottle container with a hole in the top and fill it about a quarter full of baby shampoo and the rest water.  Even just a little bit of soapy water will be enough to defog your mask.  Always remember to completely rinse your mask otherwise the residue soap will sting your eyes underwater, even the baby shampoo will cause some tears if you use too much.

You can also spit into your mask. If you use spit, the mask should be completely dry.  If you take off your mask in the water and then spit into it, it is very likely to become foggy during the dive.  Remember – dry mask, spit, rub, rinse with water, and put on your mask.

Preventing a foggy mask even if you have defogged it.

If your face is sweaty and hot, it is a good idea to splash some cool water on it to give it a quick rinse before you put your mask on.

Before putting your choice of defog on your mask, ensure that the lens are dry.

You can apply defog to your mask anytime prior to jumping in the water; however, you should rinse the defog out only moments before jumping in.  If you have rinsed it out, but then are delayed jumping in and you are not ready to put your mask on your face, leave a layer of water in your mask until you are ready.

Once you have defogged and rinsed your mask, put your mask on your face and don’t take it off.  Moving your mask to your forehead, neck, or into the water basically eliminate any defogging you had just put onto your mask. Keep this in mind if you are jumping into a dive or have to wait before you get to where you will leave on your dive. For long transits to insertion points try and keep your inner mask dry, you can store it in a zip-lock bag as it is easily collapsed and store. Lastly you can always leave a little water in your mask during the dive and swish it around to help keep the fog at bay.

Summary

You should clean your mask every couple of months depending on its use. It should be kept in a clean dry place. Most masks come in boxes that are designed for you to store it in. Make sure it is dry before you store it away. Clean your mask after every use; make sure to clean around the outside edge of the mask especially the part close to your mouth. Because it is close to your mouth it can smell like food and that can attack bugs. If this happens, they will eat your mask and it will look like it is dry rotten. Most masks are made of high quality rubber and can resist dry rot. A good dive mask can last for years if taking care of properly.

FirstSpear Friday Focus – Rash Guard

Friday, July 20th, 2018

All new FirstSpear Rash Guards are here!

Constructed from a high performance USA poly/spandex knit designed for a compression fit that dries extremely quick and helps protect skin against the rubbing and abrasion commonly found in a maritime or watersport environment.

Also great for protection against extended exposure to the sun. There is also a low-profile thumbhole to help keep sleeves in place when putting on other equipment or garments.

Available in a long sleeve option as well as a short sleeve coming next week. Order your standard t-shirt size for a compressed fit and consider stepping up 1-2 sizes for a more relaxed fit. 100% Made in the USA.

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www.first-spear.com/technical-apparel/rash-guard-7188