Tactical Tailor

Posts Tagged ‘Scubapro’

SCUBAPRO Sunday- Knives

Sunday, August 19th, 2018

Dive Knifes

The general maintenance of your dive knife is easy and will not be hard as long as you get into a good habit of always raising the knife and scabbard in fresh water properly.

Post Dive care

After diving, rinse the knife and sheath in fresh water. Wash the scabbard thoroughly to ensure no salty residue is left inside, remove the knife from the sheath and operate any moving parts while soaking. This helps remove sand and other debris that may have gotten inside. If not done properly when you put the knife back the remaining salt will cause the blade to rust. If the knife can be disassembled (usually by taking the handle off), take it apart and rinse the individual pieces in fresh water after every couple of dives or if you plan to store for a long time. This helps prevent salt buildup and corrosion from happening underneath the grip where you can’t see it. Dry all of the pieces thoroughly before putting the knife back together.

If you are done diving for the day you can apply a light coat of silicone to the blade to prevent corrosion, but don’t use a petroleum-based lubricant. Petroleum will attract dust and sand. Use a light oil designed for knifes for lubricating and storage. You will want to use a lightweight honing or mineral oil designed for knife care. If your knife does start to rust try and clean it as soon as possible. For very light corrosion, you may be able to wipe it off with just a towel or toothbrush. Again you can also use a cleaning cloth that is designed to help remove light rust marks. For more stubborn stains and rust, soak the knife in distilled white vinegar for about three – five minutes. Remove the blade from the vinegar and wipe it down. Again, a toothbrush will work nicely for removing the lighter stuff. An abrasive sponge can be used for tougher jobs but be careful not to scrub too hard because you could scratch the blade and you can also remove some of the outer coating and it will make it rust faster. Do not use a steel wool, as that will cause more rust to form later. The steel wool will leave small pieces of steel behind that will start to rust.

Rinse the knife in fresh water in the same manner as you would for post-dive care. Dry the knife thoroughly and apply a light coat of silicone to protect against corrosion.

K6 Stainless Knife

Storing your knife

You can store your knife in the scabbard once you are sure both the knife and scabbard are dry. For long-term storage you should store the knife outside the sheath/ scabbard.  If you have a leather sheath, that retains moisture and will cause rust.  You can store the knife outside the scabbard in a cloth that has some oil on it. They make cloths that are treated with mineral oil you can use or just spray some on one. Store the knife in a dive mask box or put the knife wrapped in the cloth in a Zip lock bag.

Sharping your knife

Dive knifes can be hard to sharpen as most have a straight edge and a serrated edge to them. So you cannot really use the easy methods, like a quick pull sharpener, that you just pull the knife thru. You can use a sharpening stone for the straight edge and a ceramic rod for the serrated edge.

1. With your knife at the correct angle, slowly draw the knife down and across the stone in a smooth motion, starting at the heel and finishing at the tip.

2. The number of times this must be done will vary depending on how dull your knife is. But what’s most important is that you do the same amount of pulls on both sides of the knife.

3. After five draws, flip the knife to the other side and repeat the heel-to-tip motion.

4. Repeat this process, but instead push the knife from tip to heel. Knives are used to cut in both push and pull motions, so it’s important to sharpen them in both directions as well.

5. Flip the stone over to the finer side, and complete steps again until your knife is sharp.

Serrated Edge sharping

There are lots of ceramic rods out there so I am just going to talk about one the Lansky rod. It is tapered so it will fit all sorts of sizes of serration bevels.

1. First size the bevel by taking the rod and place it in a serrated bevel so that the angle is the same. Run the rod from the top (side closest to the spine of the blade) to the bottom (the cutting edge) a few times in each serrated groove. Try and stay with the angle of the serration.

2. Knock off the burr by taking a fine grit sandpaper or sharpening stone and remove any burr from the flat side of the serrated grooves by making a few light passes. Be sure to only take the tapered rod to the width of each serrated groove so that it does not deform them. You don’t need to use a lot of pressure with this method.

3. If you don’t understand this look on YouTube there are a ton of ways to do this.

Titanium Dive Knives

Sharping a titanium dive knife is the same as a stainless steel, but there is a difference. Most companies recommend a diamond sharpener. You will have to make sure you know what type of titanium knife you have as some are only coated with titanium. If it is called military grade it should be pure titanium. Remember when sharpening to use a light touch, titanium is easy to deformed and excessive pressure in sharpening will roll the edge causing difficulties getting a sharp edge.

SCUBAPRO Professional Knife

The SCUBAPROs TK15 is the first in a new series of Tactical dive knifes. It is built around a single piece of marine-grade stainless steel machined to achieve the ideal balance of strength and weight. Its surface is specifically polished to let water drain easily and prevent oxidation. The thickness of the stainless steel is consistent from one end to the other, creating a high level of stiffness. This is a traditional, heavy-duty, no-frills type of knife designed to handle all cutting jobs, large and small.

The blade is a generous 15cm/6in long and features a lower full-length smooth-edge and an upper serrated edge positioned close to the handle so you can maintain maximum control of the cut. A line cutter is positioned closer to the tip of the blade to enable you to easily hook lines, plus in this position it doesn’t weaken the blade. Also, a shackle key is built into the body of the blade, a great addition for boat divers.

Marine-grade stainless steel offers the best balance between cutting edge reliability and resistance to corrosion. This can be a difficult balance to achieve on the same piece of steel, but SCUBAPRO succeeded by adding a handmade polish finishing on the steel surface which promotes water run-off for long-term oxidation-free durability.

The TK15 comes with a heavy-duty handle that’s sized and shaped for solid gripping. The rugged sheath is made from fiberglass reinforced polyamide. The knife is kept in place by two teeth on the sheath matching the recesses on the handle. The sheath includes heavy-duty nylon straps for easy attachment and a SCUBAPRO branded hand cover with bungee to secure the knife to your hand under critical conditions.

www.scubapro.com

SCUBAPRO – G2 Console And Wrist Sale

Tuesday, August 14th, 2018

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www.scubapro.com

SCUBAPRO Sunday – Galileo G2 Family of Dive computers

Sunday, August 12th, 2018

SCUBAPRO’s groundbreaking design of its Galileo dive computers changed the diving world forever.

Galileo revolutionized dive computers in 2007, with hybrid air-oil filling, dot-matrix display and a maximum operating depth of 330 meters or 1080 feet. The Galileo won awards for its design and the hearts and minds of its legions of fans through incredibly easy menus, intuitive usability and technology that made diving easier and more fun. Loaded with computing, navigation and personalization features unavailable anywhere else, you simply couldn’t get a full-featured wrist-mount dive computer better than a Galileo. The G2 (Galileo 2) series of dive computers features a wrist mounted and also a console version. The big brothers to the Galileo SOL and LUNA. The G2,s has been redesigned from the ground up, and in the process a new standard in dive computing for SCUBAPRO has been created. The air integrated G2 uses the same menu structure, the same simple 3-button control system, and the same diver-friendly functions that helped earn the Galileo its reputation as the most technologically advanced computer available – and also the hands-down easiest to use. Every color computer is not the same. Instead of using color for color’s sake, SCUBAPRO engineer’s have leveraged color to deliver the best readability and usability available. Color indicators that quickly draw your attention to what you need to know are combined with high contrast, user configurable screen layouts and default color settings to make the G2 stand out from the crowd… at any depth. SCUBAPRO offers the only dive computers in the world that take heart rate, skin temperature, breathing rate and water temp into account during a dive. This provides you with extremely reliable no-stop and decompression stop calculations, even under the most demanding diving circumstances. These patented features are available ONLY on SCUBAPRO computers. Even though it’s a fully loaded dive computer, the G2 is surprisingly easy to use. It offers a choice of screen configurations that enable you to customize data presentation. Navigate effortless through the system via the 3 clearly marked stainless steel buttons. Rotate the screen 180 degrees to position buttons on top or bottom.  The intuitive digital compass is one of the best in the business, and a choice of languages and characters lets you receive dive data in your mother language. The G2 easily goes where you do, from open water, to free diving, to Closed Circuit Rebreather to side-mount tanks. Even your dive profile is one of a kind – based upon your real-time breathing rate, your skin temperature and your heart rate.

KEY FEATURES & SPECS

Incorporating cutting-edge biometrics through Human Factor DivingTM, the G2 comes with a slim-line casing design and a stunning full-color TFT (Thin-Film Transistor) LCD display screen. The sleek fiberglass-reinforced thermoplastic casing offers high-impact strength and good UV resistance. The high-resolution TFT screen produces vibrant colors and crisp digits that radically increase readability.

Equipped with SCUBAPRO’s UWATEC ZHL-16 ADT algorithm, the G2 can handle 8 nitrox mixes to 100% O2, its algorithm calculates true remaining bottom time (RBT), it offers a series of Microbubble levels and incorporates Profile Dependent Intermediate Stops.

Same intuitive menu structure, simple 3-button control system, and diver-friendly functions that make the Galileo so easy to use. Enables a seamless transition from the Galileo to the G2. All accessories are reverse compatible as well.

• Full-Color TFT (Thin-Film Transistor) 2.2in/5.6cm LCD display screen (320x240p). Produces
vibrant colors for maximum readability to quickly direct your attention to what you need to know.

TFT screens use less energy. More efficient than other screen types to help extend battery life.

See as much or as little as you like. Choice of screen display configurations. Customize your data presentation with Light, Classic, Full or Graphical screen options to suit your individual diving style.

Customize menu listings. Use as much or as little of the G2 technology as you need – your choice.

Multiple Language Choices. Select from more than 19 languages for receiving dive data.

• Predictive Multi-Gas ZHL-16 ADT MB algorithm. Advanced Uwatec algorithm programs up to 8 nitrox/trimix mixes to handle any recreational or technical diving scenario.

• Integrated heart rate monitor. Measures heartbeat and skin temperature and incorporates both into the workload calculations. Integration with the HRM Is exclusive to SCUBAPRO.

• Heart rate monitor also lets you visually track your heart rate “real time” to ensure you stay in your individual target zone to maximize your fun and safety at depth.

• Hoseless air integration. Monitors tank pressure plus provides true remaining bottom time (RBT) and allows air consumption to be factored into the decompression calculation. Provides support for up to 11 transmitters when all features are activated.

• Improved, Full tilt digital compass. The best available. Includes half-compass rose and bearing memory.

• Rechargeable battery. Provides up to 50 hours of dive time per charge.

• Huge 485MB memory. Stores pictures, tables, tissue loading status, and 1,000 hours of dive profiles.

• USB cable or Bluetooth Low Energy interface. Easily download dive data wirelessly to your phone or handheld device. Download dive data to a PC/Mac using LogTRAK software.

OTHER FEATURES & SPECS

• Fiberglass-reinforced thermoplastic slim-line casing. Ultra-durable & UV resistant.

• Curved ergonomic low-profile shape. Sits comfortably on the arm and resists rotating (integrated bungee mounts are provided for tech divers). Can also be used on a retractor.

Rugged TR 55 transparent thermoplastic lens protects the LCD segmented display. Features a backlight to enhance low-light readability.

Sleek, Swiss design. The best elements of the Galileo in an upscale design.

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Stainless steel control buttons (3). Accessible, intuitive, easy to use, even when wearing gloves.

• Multiple dive modes. Scuba, Freediving, Gauge, CCR and Sidemount for total in-water versatility. (Freediving, Trimix, CCR and Sidemount modes are disabled from the factory. Activation is easy – no downloading or upgrading is required.)

• Special apnea logbook. Stores repetitive dives sequentially under the same apnea session.

• Maximum operating depth. 394ft/120m for reliable data computing regardless of diving situation.

SCUPAPRO Special Projects

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SCUBAPRO in a continuous effect to always innovate has been working with S and S Precision on a Navigation board that will incorporate the G2 wrist computer to make an attack board for combat swimmer operations, Search and Rescue, surveying or whenever there is a need to conduct accurate navigation. SCUBAPRO has also worked to develop special software for its dive computers and has a military version of the G2, the G2N (Navy). It was designed specifically for Combat swimmer operation. It has an advanced bottom timer mode, which is dedicated for underwater navigation. Like with normal G2 the audible tones can be switched off for stealth mode. It is equipped with a special screen that gives Total Bottom Time, Stop Watch, Current Depth, Compass heading and local time or Zulu time. It can also monitor tank pressure.

Further software changes can be done upon request.

SCUBAPRO Sunday – Wetsuits

Sunday, August 5th, 2018

Cleaning Your Wetsuit

Always clean and dry your suit as soon as possible. Rinse your wetsuit with fresh water. Its best to fill a bucket/tub/ trash can/ bath tube up with clean water and soak your wetsuit in that so it gets clean all the way thru. You can use a wetsuit shampoos and conditioners, PISS OFF and Sink the Stink are good and there are others out there. You can also use mild laundry soap or baby shampoo to clean wetsuits. Try to avoid peeing in your wetsuit; Urine is a hard smell to remove. Inspect your wetsuit for rips and tears as you are washing it.

Drying Your Wetsuit

After washing and rinsing your wetsuit, turn it inside out to help retain the flexibility on the outside of the wetsuit. Hang to dry on a wetsuit hanger or three to four plastic hanger, but don’t use a wire hanger. Wire hangers will cause the neoprene to stretch over the shoulders. The sun is your wetsuits worst nightmare as the UV rays can damage the neoprene and shortening the lifespan and the effectiveness of your suit.

                         

 SCUBAPRO Dry suit hanger      SCUBAPRO Universal Hanger

Storage  

Store your wetsuit on a flat surface or on a wetsuit hanger. Avoid folding whenever possible to avoid creases. If stored folded it can leave creases and those will take away from the insulation properties. Avoid leaving your wetsuit in stuffed in a bag, or in a hot car, as it will reduce the lifespan of your suit.

Things that Can Damage Your Wetsuit

Hot water can ruin neoprene, causing it to lose some of its flexibility. Sun and UV rays cause neoprene wetsuits to age quickly. Dry your wetsuit in a shaded area. Chlorine or salt water will break down the neoprene. The crystals for the salt water will cut your suit. This is why it is important to rinse your wetsuit with fresh water after use in chlorine or salt water.

Things to Avoid

Do not use bleach or put your wetsuit in a washer machine or a dryer. Everyone loves getting into a dry wetsuit but the drier is real bad for it. (So maybe just long enough to make it warm if you feel like you have to) Avoid pulling your wetsuit over rings, watches or anything it could get caught on. Also just pulling it on can rip it. Avoid putting petroleum jelly on your suit. Petroleum products destroy the adhesive of the wetsuit seams and can penetrate the neoprene making it hard to repair. If you are trying to avoid chafing you can use Body Glide as that has been made to be wetsuit friendly. Using beeswax or zipper lubricant can prolong the zippers life and help keep them from snagging and tearing and it also helps them work better.

Repairing Tears and Rip

Inspect your wetsuit for rips and tears after each use. The rips and tears are much easier to fix when they are small, and will grow if they go unnoticed. Wetsuits can easily tear from things like watches, pier pillions and rocks. Small tears (around 1-2 inches long) can be easily repaired. Tears bigger than a few inches may require professional repair services. If the stitches or seams are torn it may also be a good idea to take your suit to a professional for repairs.

Things you should keep on hand

Storm sure Neoprene Queen, Aquaseal and E6000 fabric glue. These are good to just leave have in a small zip-lock container in your dive bag. It is better to stay ahead of a rip. There are also wetsuit repair kits available that contain everything you will need. If you are deployed overseas and cant’ get the a true wetsuit glue, then you can try a “bike tire repair kit” from any bike store (the glue used to fix a bike tire inner tube is basically the same) and is ok for “field repair” it is not recommended by any wetsuit companies but it is a good last resort if you having to dive for a couple hour in a ripped wetsuit and have no other options, like taking your buddies suit and saying “ wow you ripped your suit that sucks”

If you want learn a lot more about wetsuits watch the below video

Below is quick summary

• Rinse with fresh water after dives to remove the salt water
• Hang up inside/out for drying
• Do not dry under sunlight to prevent neoprene being damage (sun baking) – this one is the most important.
• Do not use laundry liquid to prevent neoprene being damage
• Do not put in dryers
• Do not Iron
• Do not Bleach
• Do not store too much folded to avoid wrinkles

All this information is on this label stitched inside your suits.

Wetsuits

SCUBAPRO Sunday – Z1 Solar Power Dive Watch

Sunday, July 29th, 2018

Z1 Solar Power dive watch

Powered by the Sun, this Wristwatch-Style Computer takes Modern Diving to a New Level

The wristwatch-style Z1 is a good-looking timepiece for topside use. At the same time, it’s a ruggedly built dive computer. Its hybrid construction combines a polyacrylate case with a 316L stainless steel bezel (polyacrylate resin provides better heat-resisting properties than polycarbonate). This gives the Z1 a high-quality feel and appearance, yet enables it to excel in both durability and light weight.

                                   

SOLAR POWERED DIVE COMPUTING

But where the Z1 really shines is in its sleek, technically advanced design.
A thoroughly elegant device, the Z1 is SCUBAPRO’s first solar powered
dive computer. Not only does this eliminate the need to dispose of discarded batteries, it also eliminates the need to find a power source when it’s time to recharge the battery, making it perfect for traveling divers. Part of our SCUBAPRO Cares line, the Z1 is another SCUBAPRO product that takes our oceans and our planet into consideration.

Basically, if the Z1 is exposed to light, its internal battery is charging; whether you’re outdoors in the sun, or indoors beneath fluorescent lighting. And because the Z1 is Bluetooth enabled you don’t have to worry about where you left your download cable; downloading, data analyzing and some adjusting of settings can be done wirelessly.

Simple to use, the Z1 provides four clearly labeled control buttons to take you through the menu system. All data is presented in easy-to-read alphanumerics backed by green screen highlights. The onboard digital compass lets you navigate the depths with confidence, and the innovative backlight function illuminates the screen beautifully. Its super bright white LED light is automatically activated simply by tilting your arm in the dark, using the Z1’s ambient light sensor.

The Z1 allows you to live your life in dive mode, without being leashed to a cord and power source. What’s more, the Z1 is compatible with all of the SCUBAPRO M2 and Chromis bands. A simple accessory change allows you to go from orange to yellow to red to blue to pink to purple to white. All bands match the rest of the SCUBAPRO line including the HYDROS PRO, Seawing Novas, Synergy masks and even our S620 Ti regulators. Express your personality – and your love for diving.

Z1 FEATURES & SPECS

• Solar charging system provides hassle-free battery charging.
• Internal battery can be charged by outdoor sunlight or indoor fluorescent light.
• Power saving function maximizes your dive time between charges.
• Battery can last for more than 8 years before needing replacing. (Maximum life span depends on use and

conditions.)
• Hybrid construction combines an attractive polyacrylate case and 316L stainless steel bezel for

lightweight durability.
• Buhlmann (ZHL-16C) algorithm offers Nitrox capability from 21% to 100% O2 for up to 4 Nitrox mixes. • Provides full time-keeping functions, including a stopwatch.
• Digital onboard electronic compass allows for easy navigation.
• A non-step altitude measurement configures the pressure reduction based on the current atmospheric

pressure rather than using an altitude ranking.
• Large, bold numbers in the center of the screen, plus eye-catching green highlights, ensure that all dive

data is always easy to read.
• Super bright backlight can be activated for 1.5 seconds or 3 seconds by simply tilting the arm (when the

Auto-Light function is set to ON).
• Audible and visual alarms keep you alert to your dive status.
• Depth and time interval alarms are diver-selectable prior to the dive.
• Logbook stores 30 dives and includes a dive history which can be analyzed with wireless technology. • Bluetooth 4.0 Low Energy connectivity lets you download dives to any iOS or Android device.
• Dive modes: Scuba, Freediving and Gauge.
• Maximum operating depth: 328ft/100m.
• Available in a variety of eye-pleasing casing and wrist band colors (see below).
• Will also accept M2 and Chromis colored wrist bands.

SUMMARY

Ultra-modern and eco-friendly, the Z1 dive computer is one of the many innovative, “green” products that demonstrate SCUBAPRO’s commitment to our planet. A stylish design, simple to use, and powered by the sun, wearing the Z1 at work and at play lets you celebrate your status as a modern diver, plus demonstrates that you are in tune with the latest technology and committed to an eco-friendly world.

SCUBAPRO SUNDAY – Mask Maintenance

Sunday, July 22nd, 2018

How to clean your mask, keep it from fogging and store it properly.

Dive mask preparation

When a SCUBA mask is made it leaves a lot of film and residue on it. If not cleaned off properly you will never get your mask to stop fogging. You can search the Internet for lots of different ways to clean your mask. I am going to walk thru one of the easiest and safest methods to do it. With some of the other methods, if not done correctly you can break your mask glass or damage your frame.

Toothpaste or Soft Scrub (without bleach)

Your first step will be to take some toothpaste (not gel) and with your finger dab some on both sides of the inside of the lenses.  Rub the toothpaste thoroughly and then let it sit to dry. Try to wait an hour or two before you rinse it out; however, if you don’t have the time, just go ahead and rinse it right away; there’s a good chance it will still work. You should do this every couple of months to make sure your mask is clean. There are also commercial cleaners you can use that clean and defog.

Put your dive mask under running water to rinse out the toothpaste.  You can use your fingernail or a toothbrush to get around the skirt that touches the lens. In some cases some of the toothpaste can seep under there. Make sure you get it all out.

Different ways to defog your mask before every dive

Commercial Defog

This is the type of defog you can buy at any dive shop.  There are a million different types, but they are basically all the same.  If you would like to go this route, making sure it is safe for the reef and environmentally friendly. This is a good practice as your face will be in there. If you are diving O2 you want it as O2 clean as possibly. Usually SCUBA divers will put this inside their mask, swish it around with their finger and then rinse and go.

SCUBACLEAR, 30CC scubapro.johnsonoutdoors.com/accessories/mask-accessories/scubaclear-30cc

Baby Shampoo and dishwashing soap

This is a very economical choice in the world of defogging your mask.  Many dive boats will carry an empty plastic water bottle container with a hole in the top and fill it about a quarter full of baby shampoo and the rest water.  Even just a little bit of soapy water will be enough to defog your mask.  Always remember to completely rinse your mask otherwise the residue soap will sting your eyes underwater, even the baby shampoo will cause some tears if you use too much.

You can also spit into your mask. If you use spit, the mask should be completely dry.  If you take off your mask in the water and then spit into it, it is very likely to become foggy during the dive.  Remember – dry mask, spit, rub, rinse with water, and put on your mask.

Preventing a foggy mask even if you have defogged it.

If your face is sweaty and hot, it is a good idea to splash some cool water on it to give it a quick rinse before you put your mask on.

Before putting your choice of defog on your mask, ensure that the lens are dry.

You can apply defog to your mask anytime prior to jumping in the water; however, you should rinse the defog out only moments before jumping in.  If you have rinsed it out, but then are delayed jumping in and you are not ready to put your mask on your face, leave a layer of water in your mask until you are ready.

Once you have defogged and rinsed your mask, put your mask on your face and don’t take it off.  Moving your mask to your forehead, neck, or into the water basically eliminate any defogging you had just put onto your mask. Keep this in mind if you are jumping into a dive or have to wait before you get to where you will leave on your dive. For long transits to insertion points try and keep your inner mask dry, you can store it in a zip-lock bag as it is easily collapsed and store. Lastly you can always leave a little water in your mask during the dive and swish it around to help keep the fog at bay.

Summary

You should clean your mask every couple of months depending on its use. It should be kept in a clean dry place. Most masks come in boxes that are designed for you to store it in. Make sure it is dry before you store it away. Clean your mask after every use; make sure to clean around the outside edge of the mask especially the part close to your mouth. Because it is close to your mouth it can smell like food and that can attack bugs. If this happens, they will eat your mask and it will look like it is dry rotten. Most masks are made of high quality rubber and can resist dry rot. A good dive mask can last for years if taking care of properly.

SCUBAPRO Sunday – Fins Seawing Nova

Sunday, July 15th, 2018

Inspired by the original Seawing fin with its radical blade profile, the first Seawing Nova appeared in 2009 and
immediately turned heads with its clean-sheet streamlined design.

This innovative fin caught the attention of designers and engineers worldwide. It won Popular Science magazine’s “Best of What’s New in 2009” award. Then it handily won the ScubaLab Testers Choice award for the best performing new fin of 2010. In 2011 the Seawing Nova won the prestigious, internationally- recognized Red Dot Award for product design, then in 2013, when a full-foot version came out, it won the Testers Choice for the best full-foot fin of the year. And in 2015, after benefitting from a number of upgrades to make a great fin even greater, the improved Seawing Nova won the Testers Choice award for the best fin of the year once again.

Built with a space-age Monprene elastomer that is virtually indestructible. (The Seawing Gorilla includes a special additive to enhance stiffness and increase feedback.) Spotlighting its proprietary G4 (4th Generation) articulated hinge with enlarged Pivot Control notches that enables the entire wing-shaped blade to pivot and generate thrust, the Seawing Nova produces a propulsive snap that can rocket you through open water at top speed or propel you along reefs or in and out of tight spots with total control—all with little to no ankle or leg strain. Pivot Control Technology ensures that the most efficient 45-degree angle of attack is maintained no matter how easy or hard you kick.

The Seawing Nova also excels in low- speed maneuvering, including frog kicks, reverse kicks, and turtle backing. Offers improved handling when making small directional adjustments. This is due in large part to a slight increase in rigidity across the trailing edge of the blade which has ratcheted up responsiveness and thrust at full power, while requiring no increased kicking effort in cruising mode.

The fin features a well-engineered footplate that extends all the way to the back of the heel, maximizing power transmission while minimizing stress on legs and ankles. Co-molded Grip Pads provide efficient non-skid footing on wet surfaces. The fin also features the popular self-adjusting heel strap made of marine-grade bungee. This bungee is highly elastic, resistant to the elements and the soft heel pad with over-sized finger loop is comfortable and simplifies doffing and donning. It can also be fitted with a steel spring strap.

SEAWING NOVA FAMILY OF FINS

• Seawing Nova Open Heel This high-performance fin delivers the power, acceleration and maneuverability of a blade fin, with the kicking comfort and efficiency of a split fin. Available in five sizes (XS-XL).

Seawing Gorilla Open Heel
While identical in design to the Seawing Nova, the Seawing Gorilla uses a special additive in its compound to provide more stiffness and snap to the blade. This results in more power, speed and control for divers who like a stiffer fin with more feedback in their kicks. The stiffer blade also allows for more effective sculling, frog-kicking and reverse-kicking, making it an excellent choice for tech divers. Available in five sizes (XS-XL) Graphite ( while supplies last) Black is available by special order.

THE SEAWING NOVA ADVANTAGE

On a traditional paddle fin, during a typical kick stroke, as water flow hits the fin the blade will curve along its length. This means that the blade’s angle of attack, relative to the water flow, is going to be different at different points on the blade. In such a case, the leading edge remains too flat to generate efficient thrust, while the trailing edge flexes too much. Consequently, only the mid- section is actually able to produce efficient thrust.

Downfalls of traditional fins

 The Seawing Nova will always maintain the most efficient angle of attack along the entire length of its blade, because instead of the gradual curve of a traditional blade, the Seawing Nova’s blade stays relatively flat due to the G4 articulated joint that allows the entire blade to pivot (like the tail joint of a whale or dolphin). Also, the blade is longitudinally reinforced by pronounced rails which help prevent curvature (this is supported by the monocoque effect that takes place when the Variable Blade Geometry wing tips arc upwards).

On a traditional paddle fin, the harder you kick, the more the blade bends. That means a soft fin will achieve the ideal 45-degree angle when it’s kicked gently, but will over-bend and lose thrust when it’s kicked hard. Stiffer fins, on the other hand, achieve that ideal 45-degree angle when kicked hard but remain too flat to be efficient when kicked gently. Consequently, both types require the diver to compromise his or her kicking style to get any efficiency out of the fin.

Inconsistent Angle of attack

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Soft fin  / Soft Kick    Soft fin / Hard kick       Hard Fin/ Soft kick

On the Seawing Nova, by creating a fixed angle of attack, the special G4 hinge also allows the blade to flex easily to that ideal 45-degree angle, but prevents it from flexing further as kicking strength increases. Therefore, the angle of attack is close to the optimal 45 degrees at all times, regardless of kicking strength. Kicking easy or kicking hard, the Seawing Nova lets you always maintain the optimum angle of attack for maximum performance.

On a traditional paddle fin, that non-productive or “dead” section where foot pocket and blade meet creates a lot of drag without generating any thrust.

On the Seawing Nova, engineers eliminated this section, creating a “Clean Water Blade” where water flows cleanly onto the working section of the blade, reducing drag and increasing thrust.

The ‘dead’ section between the foot pocket and the blade of a traditional fin generates drag but not thrust. We removed it! This means that water is free to flow cleanly onto the working section of the blade. Drag is reduced and thrust is increased. Seawing Nova’s also except the SCUBAPRO fin keeper. The Keeper is design to maintain your fins when not in use. They can be clipped to your wrist for climbing or OTB. They can also be attached to your plate carrier or H-Gear.

                     

MATBOCK Skins, SCUBAPRO has been working with MATBOCK to develop Skins for SCUBAPRO fins that will help you adapt your fins to every environment. Perfect for Over the Beach or River and Stream crossing. The patent Pending MATBOCK Skins are a multi-layer adhesive/ fabric laminate designed to give the user the ability to camouflage any surface desired. The Skins are waterproof and oil resistant, can be reused mutable times. Skins are designed and laser cut specifically for the following fins, Seawing Nova’s, Gorilla and SCUBAPRO Jet fins.

Something Is Coming From SCUBAPRO

Friday, July 13th, 2018