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High Angle Solutions – DMM – Talon Ground Anchors

Wednesday, October 14th, 2015

The DMM Talon is a steep earth anchor born from the need to protect users operating in terrain where traditional anchors are marginal or non-existent. It has been designed as a ground anchor for back-roping stretchers on steep ground where the consequence of failure is not catastrophic.

Made from laser cut aircraft grade aluminium the Talon weighs in at only ~1.5 lbs (700 g). The upper edge is serrated to allow a user to weight the device for additional holding power. The main attachment point is an 11mm Dynatec sling threaded through a radius edged oversize hole, which allows the user to replace the sling operationally with 8mm cord or rope should the Dynatec sling become compromised. For convenient stowage the Talon is fitted with a retaining pin to keep all of the arms together for efficient storage and racking.

The DMM Talon does not have a strength rating however field tests with Mountain Rescue teams have shown consistent results around 5kN with up to 8kN in excellent ground.

Available in Red or Matte Grey.

www.dmmwales.com

High Angle Solutions is a weekly feature by DMM and CTOMS.

Tags: DMM
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High Angle Solutions – CTOMS – TRACE Systems Kit

Wednesday, October 7th, 2015

CTOMS’ TRACE Systems is billed as the world’s smallest and lightest comprehensive capability micro-rope system. TRACE was designed to allow users to rappel, ascend, throw up a guiding line, and more, with a fraction of the weight and bulk of traditional rope systems.

Development started in 2009 for a micro egress system, which evolved into the TRACE Systems. Catastrophic system failure in traditional rescue systems is mitigated by brute strength of all components, and in recreational climbing via elongation, or stretch of the rope when excessive force is applied. TRACE Systems have neither, therefore in order to get the system so small, a relatively new concept of “Force Limiting” has been engineered into it. The devices, working with specific rope, will slide between 2.5 and 5.7kN depending on variable factors (device wear, rope wear, wet rope, brake hand strength, etc.), which is called the “load limiting slip force”. When excessive force is applied to the system the rope slips through the device until the force is reduced to somewhere between 2.5 and 5.7kN. This limits the force experienced by the system to the load limiting slip force. Should the rope not be allowed to slip through the device due to fouling for example, then the static system safety ratio, or Factor of Safety (FoS) comes into effect.

Due to the engineering of the system, TRACE Kits are “systems” and as such sold only as kits. Rope substitutions are not authorized as there is no evidence to support their use, and some evidence to show it is dangerous. Many tests we have done with alternate ropes have catastrophically damaged the rope where minimal damage occurs to TRACE Systems rope in the same tests. Due to the differences in rigging rules of TRACE Systems, every kit comes with access to the online basic training course. More details on this will be shared in a future ‘High Angle Solutions’ post.

CTOMS just launched their kits, now available for retail purchase online. Note the pricing on the website is in CAD. Agency discounts are available if you contact them directly. Advanced training in climbing and rescue can be contracted through CTOMS or one of their Authorized TRACE Systems TRAINING Providers. More information can be found here: ctoms.ca/Mission-Essential-Training_3/Complex-Terrain-Programs

ctoms.ca/Mission-Essential-Equipment/TRACE-Systems-Kits

High Angle Solutions is a new weekly feature by DMM and CTOMS.

Tags: CTOMS
Posted in Mountaineering | 7 Comments »

Salomon – X ALP MTN GTX

Thursday, October 1st, 2015

Along the perimeter of the Edgar Brothers booth at DSEI were a series of glass cases. Inside one of these were four examples of Salomon footwear. Three of the boots were from their Forces line but the fourth boot was a commercial mountaineering model.

Turns out, it’s the X ALP MTN GTX and it’s currently undergoing wear trials with several European military and civil rescue organizations.

It’s a GORE-TEX lined, lightweight mountaineering boot, designed to be used with B1 crampons. They’ve balanced the sole system to make it flexible enough for approaches yet stiff enough for use with crampons.

The Nubuck leather upper is paired with Cordura and a 3D edging chassis. It’s got true to-toe lacing as well as a rubber toecap and heel counter. Additionally, the forefoot is protected with EVA foam and the tongue is also padded.

They’ve chosen the Contragrip sole which is combined with an EVA shaped footbed as well as a carbon fiber “edging” stiffener.

Now, we just need to see a militarized version of this boot in the Forces line.

www.salomon.com/us/product/x-alp-mtn-gtx

Tags: Salomon
Posted in Boots, DSEi, Mountaineering | 12 Comments »

High Angle Solutions – DMM Pivot Belay Device

Wednesday, September 30th, 2015

The new DMM Pivot is a modern belay device that caters for modern belaying techniques with modern ropes. Meticulously researched and developed to provide optimum performance both belaying from the harness, and direct from the anchor. The Pivot provides smooth paying out, a secure and confident catch, and controlled lowering. The head turner is the innovative pivot – this patent pending solution shifts the lever arrangement to allow easily initiated and controlled lowering when used in guide/direct mode. Even with a weighty second, the belayer can lower one, both, or either second with total control using the specially shaped biner cavity. Once the top is reached, the Pivot will be a trustworthy abseil partner for the return to the base. Perfect for alpine, winter, and multi-pitch trad.

The grey surface finish shown is the new DMM Tactical color which has been chosen for its ability to blend into a far wider variety of environments. Additionally, the carabiner shown in the above image is the Flat Dark Earth color finished in DMM’s Cerakote option, which will be covered in more detail in a future feature.

www.dmmwales.com

High Angle Solutions is a new weekly feature by DMM and CTOMS.

Tags: DMM
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DSEI – DMM

Wednesday, September 16th, 2015

Our friends at CTOMS introduced us to one of their close industry partners, DMM, and boy are we glad they did.

DMM is a Welsh company that manufactures all of their climbing hardware at their factory in Wales. They have three primary lines: Recreational, Industrial and Tactical and their offerings are extensive.

Let’s take a look at a few items.

This is the Talon, a steep earth anchor for use in dirt. Basically, you open the device and step on the arrayed anchors to keep it fast.

DMM now offers cerakoting as an optional coating, meaning custom colors for specialized use.

Below is the Revolver which integrates a pulley wheel into the QuickDraw carabiner to reduce friction at loads up to 11kn.

Finally, we get to the coolest item I saw in the booth. The RPM Shackles are a pulley/Prusick-minding system.

Make sure you check out their entire line.

www.dmmwales.com

Tags: CTOMS, DMM
Posted in DSEi, Mountaineering | 7 Comments »

Voilé Vector BC Skis White Top/Base

Tuesday, August 25th, 2015

Proper Kit for mountain warfare is coming from industry. In this case it’s a militarized version of the classic Vector BC.

The ski incorporates the Voilé Traction Pattern Base which aids in long approaches although you’ll probably still need skins for steep terrain.

Offered in 160, 170 and 180 cm lengths.

www.voile.com/voile-down-range/voile-vector-bc-skis-white

Tags: Voile
Posted in Mobility, Mountaineering | 6 Comments »

Sterling Rope Rebrands

Monday, August 24th, 2015

Sterling Rope showed off their new look at the recent Outdoor Retailer Summer Market in Salt Lake City. Last year, Sterling introduced tactical colors to their selections. Here are a few styles of rope and xordage you may be interested in.

www.sterlingrope.com

Tags: Sterling Rope
Posted in Mountaineering | Comments Off on Sterling Rope Rebrands

CRKT – 3 New Collaborations with Hans Florine

Sunday, August 23rd, 2015

We ran across three great surprises in the CRKT booth at OR Summer Market. Designed by world-record speed climber of The Nose on El Capitan Hans Florine, these blades are lightweight and can be opened one-handed.