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Archive for the ‘Mountaineering’ Category

High Angle Solutions – DMM – Revolver

Wednesday, November 18th, 2015

revolver wire SD

The DMM Revolver is a personal use-sized carabiner designed to lighten the load on a harness through its multi-functional design. An internal pulley wheel allows the rope to glide through the quickdraw, proving very useful on long pitches, crux bolts and changes in direction. Used as a biner, it makes light work of crevasse rescue, light hauling, and rescue.

colours

Tech Specs:

· Major Axis Strength: 24kN

· Minor Axis Strength: 7kN

· Open Gate Strength: 9kN

· Weight: 51g

· Gate Open: 51mm

· Dimensions: 59 x 103mm

· Pulley functional with loads up to 11kN

www.dmmwales.com

High Angle Solutions is a weekly feature by DMM and CTOMS.

High Angle Solutions – DMM – Claw Steep Earth Axe

Wednesday, November 11th, 2015

2KD_5888-2

Based on the key components of the reliable DMM Fly axe, the Claw has been designed for specialist personnel operating on steep ground where an absence of handholds makes movement difficult. Two versions are available, an axe with a broad adze for excavation work, and a hammer. The hammer version has a soft replaceable Thor head which is sympathetic to our aluminium ground anchor, the Talon. The soft head is also significantly quieter when placing gear.

The pick on both versions has a T-Shaped cross section that increases surface area, reducing the risk of ‘pull through’ and increasing safety and stability, especially when the operator is heavily laden.

_RWP6549_hi

This feature also allows the Claws to be placed as supplementary anchors in series to reinforce existing gear or alongside the Talon.

www.dmmwales.com

High Angle Solutions is a weekly feature by DMM and CTOMS.

High Angle Solutions – CTOMS – M2-Harness

Wednesday, November 4th, 2015

M2 System Complete Kit With PS

The M-Harness was born of CTOMS’ drive to produce designs customized to the unique capability requirements of defense and security, rather than simply adapt a typical recreational mountaineering harness and offer it in “military colors”. The concept behind the M-Harness was to build a safe design, where the main belt could be worn as a standard trouser belt, with the convenience of a quick release belt, eliminating the requirement for carrying two belts, reducing weight and bulk. This design also sped up donning and doffing the harness, and allows the user to to keep their feet planted while donning the leg loops, ideal when wearing crampons or skis.

The M2 system is an evolution of the original M-Harness design. The buckles were shrunk for less weight and bulk. This also allowed the use of smaller webbing. AustriAlpin customized the buckles for CTOMS so the tabs are flush with the frame for additional safety. Padding was added as a standard feature on the leg loops, and the rear support straps are field replaceable. CTOMS ensured that the safety and function of the harness was the highest standard, not compromising any safety features for convenience, but also not compromising convenience (see Private Bloggins Harnesses 101).

M2-Belt Coyote Brown

As for the belt, it is 1 3/4″ wide for fit into 2″ trouser belt loops; a 2″ Duty Belt version that has internal loop Velcro, and an inner soft trouser belt are currently in production. The belt is also compatible with the CTOMS X-Belt padding and armor system, making for a versatile and scalable system. If a harness is not in your requirements, it also happens to make for a pretty good standalone belt, as well.

ctoms.ca/Mission-Essential-Equipment/Belts-and-Harnesses/M2-Harness-QR

ctoms.ca

High Angle Solutions is a weekly feature by DMM and CTOMS.

High Angle Solutions – CTOMS – TRACE System GREY Kit/ Emergency Egress Kit

Wednesday, October 28th, 2015

Grey Kit New Kit

A traditional egress-from-height kit may be too weight and volume restrictive to add to a loadout, putting a user in a potentially dangerous situation if they need to get off a roof or out of a building fast. The TRACE Systems GREY Kit offers users the capability to egress from a height up to 16m (52.5ft) with the stock rope, in a kit weighing only 1.8lbs (.815kg). The GREY Kit maintains a 10:1 factor of safety with a 1-person load, and includes auto-braking when the device is released from grip.

A comparative example in functionality is a firefighter egress kit, although TRACE Systems is smaller than the 7mm minimum rope diameter set by NFPA, making TRACE Systems significantly smaller and lighter. Additionally, TRACE Systems can easily be expanded for additional capabilities with the inclusion of additional components.

ctoms.ca

High Angle Solutions is a weekly feature by DMM and CTOMS.

High Angle Solutions – CTOMS – TRACE System Training

Wednesday, October 21st, 2015

TRACE_Training_Screenshot_6

When we first development TRACE Systems we realized that if traditional rigging rules were applied, it could create unsafe conditions. For example, if you tie a knot in a rope that’s been cycled 100 times, the strength reduction of the rope comes quite close to the load limiting slip force of a wet well used rope, risking catastrophic failure should dynamic force be applied to it. There is a rule with TRACE Systems of no knots (with certain exceptions), however this is contrary to common rigging practices.

Additionally, TRACE Systems is not cheap, and because of that, we feared that in an effort to try to save money, some end users may try to use different rope, even 6mm accessory cord in the devices. Testing has proven catastrophic failures at very low forces with alternate ropes (see: privatebloggins.ca).

TRACE_Training_Screenshot_1

We had to come up with a means to provide training to end users of the kits that was accessible and cost effective.

Using our online Learning Management System (LMS), we built a course that is accessible anywhere you have an internet connection. Access to the course now comes with the purchase of every TRACE Systems Kit that contains a QD and rope.

TRACE_Training_Screenshot_2

This basic online course allows the end user to work through and learn the safe basic use of TRACE Systems at their own time and pace.

The online course covers a basic physics review, the differences in traditional and TRACE Systems, in depth details about the rope and devices, including inspecting them for serviceability, testing videos including with third party components and sharp edge falls, and instructions on how to rappel, ascend, lower and haul.

TRACE_Training_Screenshot_3

CTOMS is currently working on 3 advanced modules: Alpine, Climbing and Rescue which will require mandatory practical training from CTOMS or one of their Authorized TRACE Systems Training Providers to follow the online content.

ctoms.ca

High Angle Solutions is a weekly feature by DMM and CTOMS.

High Angle Solutions – DMM – Talon Ground Anchors

Wednesday, October 14th, 2015

talon_grey

The DMM Talon is a steep earth anchor born from the need to protect users operating in terrain where traditional anchors are marginal or non-existent. It has been designed as a ground anchor for back-roping stretchers on steep ground where the consequence of failure is not catastrophic.

Made from laser cut aircraft grade aluminium the Talon weighs in at only ~1.5 lbs (700 g). The upper edge is serrated to allow a user to weight the device for additional holding power. The main attachment point is an 11mm Dynatec sling threaded through a radius edged oversize hole, which allows the user to replace the sling operationally with 8mm cord or rope should the Dynatec sling become compromised. For convenient stowage the Talon is fitted with a retaining pin to keep all of the arms together for efficient storage and racking.

The DMM Talon does not have a strength rating however field tests with Mountain Rescue teams have shown consistent results around 5kN with up to 8kN in excellent ground.

Available in Red or Matte Grey.

www.dmmwales.com

High Angle Solutions is a weekly feature by DMM and CTOMS.

High Angle Solutions – CTOMS – TRACE Systems Kit

Wednesday, October 7th, 2015

CTOMS’ TRACE Systems is billed as the world’s smallest and lightest comprehensive capability micro-rope system. TRACE was designed to allow users to rappel, ascend, throw up a guiding line, and more, with a fraction of the weight and bulk of traditional rope systems.

Evolution of the QD V3

Development started in 2009 for a micro egress system, which evolved into the TRACE Systems. Catastrophic system failure in traditional rescue systems is mitigated by brute strength of all components, and in recreational climbing via elongation, or stretch of the rope when excessive force is applied. TRACE Systems have neither, therefore in order to get the system so small, a relatively new concept of “Force Limiting” has been engineered into it. The devices, working with specific rope, will slide between 2.5 and 5.7kN depending on variable factors (device wear, rope wear, wet rope, brake hand strength, etc.), which is called the “load limiting slip force”. When excessive force is applied to the system the rope slips through the device until the force is reduced to somewhere between 2.5 and 5.7kN. This limits the force experienced by the system to the load limiting slip force. Should the rope not be allowed to slip through the device due to fouling for example, then the static system safety ratio, or Factor of Safety (FoS) comes into effect.

Due to the engineering of the system, TRACE Kits are “systems” and as such sold only as kits. Rope substitutions are not authorized as there is no evidence to support their use, and some evidence to show it is dangerous. Many tests we have done with alternate ropes have catastrophically damaged the rope where minimal damage occurs to TRACE Systems rope in the same tests. Due to the differences in rigging rules of TRACE Systems, every kit comes with access to the online basic training course. More details on this will be shared in a future ‘High Angle Solutions’ post.

TRACE

CTOMS just launched their kits, now available for retail purchase online. Note the pricing on the website is in CAD. Agency discounts are available if you contact them directly. Advanced training in climbing and rescue can be contracted through CTOMS or one of their Authorized TRACE Systems TRAINING Providers. More information can be found here: ctoms.ca/Mission-Essential-Training_3/Complex-Terrain-Programs

ctoms.ca/Mission-Essential-Equipment/TRACE-Systems-Kits

High Angle Solutions is a new weekly feature by DMM and CTOMS.

Salomon – X ALP MTN GTX

Thursday, October 1st, 2015

Along the perimeter of the Edgar Brothers booth at DSEI were a series of glass cases.  Inside one of these were four examples of Salomon footwear.  Three of the boots were from their Forces line but the fourth boot was a commercial mountaineering model.  

  
Turns out, it’s the X ALP MTN GTX and it’s currently undergoing wear trials with several European military and civil rescue organizations.  

  
It’s a GORE-TEX lined, lightweight mountaineering boot, designed to be used with B1 crampons.  They’ve balanced the sole system to make it flexible enough for approaches yet stiff enough for use with crampons.  

  

The Nubuck leather upper is paired with Cordura and a 3D edging chassis.  It’s got true to-toe lacing as well as a rubber toecap and heel counter.  Additionally, the forefoot is protected with EVA foam and the tongue is also padded.  

  

They’ve chosen the Contragrip sole which is combined with an EVA shaped footbed as well as a carbon fiber “edging” stiffener.  

  
Now, we just need to see a militarized version of this boot in the Forces line.

www.salomon.com/us/product/x-alp-mtn-gtx