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Archive for the ‘Maritime’ Category

SCUBAPRO Sunday – How to Choose a Dive Knife

Sunday, May 5th, 2019

A dive knife is an indispensable tool. Offered in a variety of styles and sizes, corrosion-resistant metals and featuring a choice of cutting edges to handle different cutting tasks, a diving knife is a must-have item. A good dive knife is a must-have when you go thru underwater knife fighting school.   

Dive Knife Sizes

Dive knives range from the traditional full-sized knife’s that you generally strap to your lower leg, to compact ones that can be mounted on a BCD pocket or secured to an HP hose.  

The K6 is an excellent example of a traditional-style full-sized all-purpose diver’s knife.  Its large six-inch blade and ergonomic grip handle comes with an injected molded sheath and two quick-adjusting buckle straps that mount easily on the lower leg.

 

 

At the other end of the spectrum is a diver knife like the White Tip.  With a blade length of about 2.5 inches and an overall length of just under six inches, this type of knife is compact enough to attach to a hose or a BCD as a primary knife or to stow in an easy-to-reach pocket as a back-up cutting tool.

 

 

Diving Knife Materials

Stainless Steel Diving Knives

Stainless steel is the most common alloy used in the manufacturing of dive knife blades.  The majority of dive knives are made of either Grade 304 stainless steel or Marine Grade 316 stainless steel. 

Grade 304 hard-tempered stainless steel is a very versatile metal that is used in a variety of outdoor applications.  It offers resistance to surface oxidation and provides an excellent cutting edge.  Because it is a little softer than Marine-Grade 316 stainless steel, a Grade 304 blade needs to be sharpened more frequently to maintain its right cutting edge.  The stainless steel version of the Mako is an excellent example of a diving knife made with Grade 304 stainless steel. Marine Grade 316 stainless steel is similar to Grade 304, but it has one crucial extra ingredient: molybdenum. This is a hard, silver-white metallic element used to toughen the steel. This enables Marine Grade 316 dive knives to maintain their super-sharp edges for longer periods, plus it increases corrosion-resistance. SCUBAPRO’s premier dive knife, the TK 15, offers a six-inch Marine Grade 316 stainless steel blade.  The blade surface is polished explicitly so that water can drain quickly to prevent oxidation further.  Also, the thickness of the knife’s stainless steel is consistent from one end to the other, creating a high level of stiffness and strength.

 

Titanium Diving Knives

Another popular material for dive knife blades is hardened titanium.  A titanium dive knife blade is entirely corrosion-resistant, it is lightweight yet extremely strong, and it can hold a sharp edge for a long, long time, all of which make titanium dive knives excellent cutting tools for use in saltwater environments.  The lightweight, multi-function X-Cut titanium dive knife is an excellent example of a titanium cutting tool.  Measuring just over five inches in overall length, its 2.5-inch blade is specially designed to maintain a highly-durable cutting edge for a long life of corrosion-free performance.

 

 

Diver’s Knife Cutting Edges, Tips and More

Dive knife blades come with either a plain edge, a serrated edge or a combination of both to handle a variety of cutting jobs.

A plain edge is good for making clean slicing cuts, or when using more of a pushing motion when control and accuracy are required – like filleting a fish.  This type of cutting motion is especially useful if the cutting edge is curved.  Plain edges are also easy to maintain.  Anyone with a basic sharpening tool can keep a plain edge razor sharp with little effort.

A serrated edge has a series of mini-edges or teeth similar to a hand saw.  A serrated edge is excellent for sawing-type cuts through heavy materials like wood or rope or stubborn kelp fronds.  For example, using a plain edge it would take forever to cut through a three-quarter inch anchor line, but a serrated edge would make quick work of it as the teeth bite deep into the material with every sawing motion.  A serrated edge also stays sharp for much longer than a plain edge, but it is a bit more difficult to sharpen.

Because these different blade edges excel in cutting different types of materials, most dive knives offer both, often on the same cutting plane.  Normally, the plain edge can be found closer to the tip of the blade, beneath the curve or “belly” of the blade, whereas the serrated portion can be found closer to the handle for better leverage when leaning into the tougher cuts.

Since a scuba diver’s knife blade’s cutting efficiency increases in relation to its length, dive knives that sport long blades, like the TK15 and K6, separate their cutting edges, devoting the entire top length of the blade to serration, and the entire bottom length to the plain edge.  This maximizes the length of each cutting edge and the overall efficiency of the knife.

When it comes to blade tips, dive knives normally come with either a blunt tip, a tanto tip, or some variation of a pointed tip.

On one end of the spectrum is the blunt tip.  As its name implies, the blunt tip is flat and dulled.  It is designed to be more of a prying tip than a piercing tip.  It is considered safer than other tips because you can’t accidentally stab your leg or puncture your BCD when returning it to its sheath.

On the other end of the spectrum is the pointed tip.  These tips come in a variety of shapes.  For example, the TK15 comes with a drop-point tip.  This is where the blade’s upper edge, or spine, gradually “drops” as it reaches the tip of the blade to form the tip.  This is considered a strong tip that is easy to control when cutting or piercing. 

The K6 and X-Cut have clip-point tips, so-named because the spine of the blade is “clipped” as it approaches the tip.  This creates a narrow tip that can be very useful for piercing a line wrapped tightly around a boat propeller in preparation for a slicing or sawing cut.  While not quite as strong as the drop-point, the clip-point is considered a very sharp and controllable point.

Falling in between the blunt tip and pointed tip is the tanto tip.  Combining elements of blunt and pointed, the typical tanto tip offers more of an angled tip which is sharpened for cutting, like on the Mako.  However, sometimes the tanto tip provides a small blunt spot as well as you’ll find on the White Tip.  Both versions produce a very strong and durable tip, enabling you to do a little prying with less chance of snapping the tip, with the added ability do some cutting when working in tight spaces.

Most dive knife blades also include a notch for cutting fishing line and, depending on design, and you can sometimes find additional tools like a bottle opener (Mako), a stainless steel handle-end for hammering (K6) or a shackle key (TK15).

 

Unique Cutting Tools You Won’t Want to Overlook

Not all scuba cutting tools look like a dive knife.  Take, for example, the innovative stainless steel Mesh Cutter.  While traditional dive knives are most effective when used with a pushing motion, the Mesh Cutter is designed to be used with a pulling motion.  This is a safer motion, plus it provides great leverage and lots of cutting power with minimal effort.  The ultra-sharp hooked blade is ideally shaped for slicing through line and netting.

 

What’s the Best Dive Knive?

Like with most types of dive equipment, the ideal knife depends on your individual diving style, and how you like to carry your gear. The choices are many. The good news is that with the variety of dive knives available in different sizes, shapes, materials and mounting options, finding the best dive knife to suit your unique diving needs shouldn’t be too difficult. 

 

SCUBAPRO Sunday – Happy Birthday Department of the Navy

Sunday, April 28th, 2019

On 30 April,1798 Congress establishes the Department of the Navy as a separate cabinet department. Previously, naval matters were under the cognizance of the War Department. (I like the name War Department better then Department of Defense) Benjamin Stoddert is named as the first Secretary of the Navy.

United States Navy claims 13 October 1775 as the date of its official establishment, when the Second Continental Congress passed a resolution creating the Continental Navy. But with the end of the American Revolutionary War, the Continental Navy was disbanded. Then with threats to American merchant shipping by Barbary pirates from four North African States, in the Mediterranean, President George Washington signed the Naval Act of 1794 the act authorizing the construction of the Navy’s first six frigates ? Congress passed a resolution to establish with haste a national navy that could protect U.S. commercial vessels from attacks by Barbary pirates in the Mediterranean and nearby Atlantic waters. The Algerian and Tunisian pirates joined forces, and by 1650 more than 30,000 of their captives were imprisoned in Algiers alone. Piracy was the cause of several wars between Tripolitania and the United States in the 19th century.

SCUBAPRO Sunday – GO fin Sport wins SCUBALAB Tester Choice 2019

Sunday, April 14th, 2019

New for 2019, the SCUBAPRO Go Sport fin is an update of the Tester’s Choice-winning Go fin model that impressed SCUBALab divers in 2017. The compact-but-powerful Monprene® blade with rail-mounted power bars is mated to the revised Ergo3 foot pocket that’s been re-engineered for use with booties. Interchangeable skegs, minimize sideslip and maximize stability.

 

The new SCUBAPRO Go Sport Fin is designed for traveling. Lightweight, comfortable, durable, and a fast and nimble performer, the Go is the ideal fin for divers, snorkelers and swimmers that travel a lot or have to carry your fins for work. 

Lightweight: When it comes to premium fins, nothing compares to the Go when integrating high quality with lightweight. This translates into convenience and weight savings on the road, and comfort and ease of use in the water. 

Super Comfortable: The Go Sport design combines the fitment benefits of an open heel fin. The replaceable self-adjusting bungee heel strap allows for a versatile fit — one diver can wear multiple sizes. The strap also makes it easy to don and doff the fin, and it fits comfortably against a booted heel. 

Ultra-Durable: While extremely comfortable, the Go Sport is also virtually indestructible. Its durable 100% Monprene construction avoids the problems of de-lamination, broken blades and torn foot pockets that tend to plague average thermoplastic fins. This enables the Go Sport to stand up to long-term, heavy-duty use. 

High Performance: The Go fin excels in strength, comfort, and convenience, but where it shines is in kicking performance. The Go is built with a 25° pre-angled blade with a central power panel that provides longitudinal rigidity and creates a channeling effect. Power bars on the underside of the rails prevent over-flex; this helps maintain the optimum angle of attack under high load conditions. The result: you get a lightweight fin that delivers speed, power, stability, and maneuverability with a minimum of effort.

They pack exceptionally well due to an innovative piggyback stack system. An interlocking tooth on one fin blade hooks into the second fin, then the bungee strap from the second fin hooks the heel of the first fin into place. It’s a snug pairing that makes packing easier. The perfect addition to the SCUBAPRO fin range, the Go Sport dedicated travel fin is lightweight, comfortable and virtually indestructible. The Go Sport Fins are available in multiple sizes. Sizing profile is the same as the Seawing Nova

 

 I first used these fins for the first time last summer. It was for a drift dive, and I didn’t think they would be able to push my fat-a$$ around. I am 6’.2” and 225lbs. I have used the Go fins for surface swimming and love them. However, I have never tried using them diving. I was amazed at how well these fins work. They are my go-to fin now for everything I do. I can’t say enough good things about them.

                               

SCUBAPRO SUNDAY – The Men with Green Faces

Sunday, April 7th, 2019

SCUBAPRO Sunday Chaffing

Sunday, March 31st, 2019

Chafing is normally not a common issue when it comes to diving but throw in a long boat ride or running around on the beach after you have swam to shore and have to do a recon and you have not or don’t plan to change out of your wetsuits. Add in some sand from swimming thru the surf and this is when chafing can occur. Generally, you will not notice it until you are a couple hours in. Chafing causes an uncomfortable, sensitive patch of skin or a rash in areas where sand has gotten into your wetsuit or where seams/ edges are in continuous contact with the skin. 

To help prevent this you should try and get thru the surf as fast as posable. I know that is easier said than done, but the longer you are in the surf the better change you have of sand getting where you don’t want it. A dive skin or rash guard will help but it is not the end all answer you can do all this and still get chaffing. I have heard of people wearing pantyhose (you can also use them on your gun to help keep sand out) for this. Make sure your wetsuit, has good seams on the inside of the suit and the edges of the neck, arms, and legs. Many wetsuit manufacturers employ methods such as taping or blind-stitching that prevent the rough edges from coming into contact with your skin. I know most anyone that has had to run after being wet and sandy know how to stop chaffing. You can also use some of the anti-chaffing stuff that is out there for runners and surfers. Both can used together to help fight this.

It is important to take off your wetsuit as soon as possible after you get out of the water. Also don not pee in your suit. Be sure to always rinse your wetsuit in freshwater right after the dive as this will help get the salt out of it and the help avoid bacteria buildup that can lead to skin irritations down the road. If you are diving or swimming in water that is really bad (like say a cove in the Hampton roads area) you will want to soak your wetsuit in a betadine solution to help kill whatever might grow in there.  

If you are already suffering from chafing there are a number of topical solutions that can help reduce the discomfort, like anti-Monkey butt( for the long zodiac rides), Butt-paste, and body glide to name a few. Be careful not to leave some of the paste on it you have to go back thru the surf as it will just help sand stick to it or even products designed for infant diaper rash.

Presented by SSD Sponsor SCUBAPRO.

SCUBAPRO Sunday – Hand signals

Sunday, March 24th, 2019

Good communication is crucial when diving with someone you never have dove before with. You can always use Dräger talk, but sometimes that doesn’t work that well. There are universal hand signals very similar to the hand and arm signals when patrolling.  

There are a lot of different hand signals, used by divers especially in different fields of diving. However, with some basic hand signals, you can dive with anyone in the world.  

Going Up or Down

Use a thumbs up signal to indicate that you are going up, or a thumbs down to indicate the opposite.

I’m Okay

Place your thumb and forefinger together forming a circle and leave the other three fingers extended upright. This is the same as you would say OK as you would above water.

Stop

Signal your dive buddy to stop by holding up one hand; the same as you would in any other instance. You can also use a closed fist like being on patrol.

Changing Direction

Just like with up and down, point your thumb (or your index finger) to indicate which direction you’re heading. You can point again like on land

Turn Around

To let everyone know it’s time to turn around, put your index finger up and rotate in a circle. Similar to rally-up.

Slow Down

Place your hand in front of you with your palm facing down. Wave your hand up and down to indicate that you need everyone to slow down a bit.

Level Off

To indicate that you want to level off once you’ve reached a certain depth, put your hand out in front of you, palm down, and wave it back and forth.

Something’s Wrong

Place your hand out in front of you, fingers spread and palm down. Wave your hand back and forth in a rocking motion. It is similar to the hand signal maybe.  

Help!

Wave your entire arm from outstretched by your side to over your head. Repeat the motion as long as you need to.

I’m Low on Air

It takes practice to be able to make your air last. Clench your hand into a fist and pull it in toward your chest. Repeat as much as you need to indicate how urgently you need to resurface. When diving a rebreather, you should point at the pressure gauge. With some of the newer rebreathers, you can pull your gauge out and show it to your dive buddy if needed.  

I’m Out of Air

If something has gone wrong with your equipment, signal quickly and repeatedly. Place your hand, palm down in front of your throat and move back and forth in a cutting motion.

You can always pull on your buddy-line to get your buddies attention, and once you have dived a couple of times together, you will start to understand what each other wants and needs. Diving at night or in low-viability is way different than diving in the day time in clear water. Sometimes diving in real lousy visibility in the day time is worse than diving at night. So, knowing how to communicate is very important. Bottom line is as long as you and your dive buddy understand what you are saying to each other you should be good. So, make sure you at least talk to the person your diving with to have the basic’s down.

 

Put On Your Best Lewis Medlock Impression With The New Birdwell Yamamoto Wetsuit Top

Wednesday, March 20th, 2019

You too can look like survivalist Lewis Medlock with the new Birdwell Wetsuit Vest, constructed from Japanese Yamamoto neoprene.

Hand-sewn in Los Angeles and finished with Melco Heat Dots at the seams, classic zig-zag topstitching, and a heavy-duty Talon zipper with pull cord, it’s lined with super-stretch nylon. Also available in a sleeved version.

www.birdwell.com/collections/wetsuits-1/products/wetsuit-vest

SCUBAPRO SUNDAY – Mask Care Pre and Post Dive

Sunday, March 17th, 2019

I wanted to have link to the Movie, The Fighting Sullivan’s in honor of ST Patrick’s day and I couldn’t find it. So, then I looked for The Fighting 69th, again can’t find that one also. The Fighting Sullivan’s is my favorite movies of all times. If you ever want to teach someone about brotherhood and loyalty. That is the movies to watch. Well and The Boonedock Saints.          

                 “Everyone is Irish on St Paddies Day”

                                      Happy St Patrick’s day.  

Dive masks are one of the most basic, and most important pieces of equipment you have for your dive. If your mask falls it makes for a very long and painful dive. To ensure your mask stays in good condition, you must take care of it like the important piece of equipment it is. If you can’t see beneath the surface, what’s the point?

Just as you would always care for your regulator, so should you always remember your mask. This maintenance needs to be a regular routine for your dive trips. Follow the tips below to keep an easy system flowing for your scuba mask care regime.

Pre-Dive

When a SCUBA mask is made it leaves a lot of film and residue on it. If not cleaned off properly you will never get your mask to stop fogging. You can search the Internet for lots of different ways to clean your mask. I am going to walk thru one of the easiest and safest way to do it. With some of the other way, if not done right you can break your mask glass or damage your frame.

Check your mask for any damage that’s occurred. Look for small cracks in the rubber of the strap or on the skirt. Test the elasticity of the strap, replacing as needed, don’t wait until you are on the dive boat to try test this. Make sure you check the clips as well.

Inspect the skirt on your mask for wear and tears. Also look at the frame of the mask where the glass is seated for imperfections. 

Post-Dive

Always rinse your mask with freshwater. Let it dry properly out of direct sunlight. You can clean it with toothpaste or a mask cleaner. Let your mask dry out completely to prevent mold and mildew growth.

Storage and Proactive Care

Mask care includes smart storage. Keep it in a hard-covered case for the best protection from moisture, dust, and impact. If it came with a hard case, make sure you store the mask in that. Plastic parts can stay oddly shaped if crushed or folded down when incorrectly stored for long periods of time. Also make sure it has good airflow to make sure it doesn’t get moldy.

Basic gear maintenance will allow you to keep your gear for a long time and also help it not fail you when it is needed most.