The Seawing Supernova are like the MultiCam of fins. If you understand camo, you know that MultiCam is a camouflage pattern developed for usage in a variety of settings. It is said it can be used in 70% of the world. When it comes to frog and alternate kicks, the new twin-tip winglets increase control and markedly improve maneuverability. I started using the Supernovas a couple of months ago and noticed a difference immediately. I felt like I had a lot more maneuverability than with conventional fins. It also feels like what you expect a great dive fin to feel, but without the weight and, honestly, a lot more flexibility on the kicks, Frog, Reverse, Scissor or Flutter.

A diving fin needs power, and the Seawing Supernova has it. The fins are designed with Pivot Control Technology. The blade is pre-set in the 40º to 50º range, which is the appropriate angle of attack for the blade and ideal for translating kicks into forward propulsion.

The blade’s revolutionary flexible Auto-Adjust center panel coordinates with this hinge mechanism to adjust the angle of attack by counter-pivoting in response to the force of the kick. So, what does that all mean? On a traditional paddle fin, the harder you kick, the more the blade bends. That means a soft fin will achieve the ideal 45-degree angle when kicked gently but will over-bend and lose thrust when kicked hard. On the other hand, stiffer fins achieve that ideal 45-degree angle when kicked hard but remain too flat to be efficient when kicked gently.

Consequently, both types require the diver to compromise their kicking style to get any efficiency out of the fin.

When you are fining, you can kick so hard that it will bend the blade so far back that it can “technical” pull you backward; this offers a softer angle of attack for comfort while lightly kicking, a more aggressive angle of attack when powerfully kicking, and anything in between. New twin-tip winglets improve control and maneuverability when doing frog and alternating kicks.

The Seawing Supernova, winner of the prestigious Red Dot Award for product design, is a remarkable improvement over the Seawing Nova in terms of performance, construction, fit, and versatility. It also features a cutting-edge blade shape that generates significantly more power, speed, and maneuverability.

The Seawing Supernova also has a novel two-piece design, with the blade and foot pocket molded separately, is made of quality Monprene® for maximum durability, and breaks down effortlessly for transport. This will also allow you two change your blades as SCUBAPRO designed more. The Seawing Supernova’s open heel foot pocket has an updated heavy-duty bungee strap that enables micro-adjustments to accommodate various boot types and extended grip pads that improve non-skid traction on wet surfaces. It is sold as an open heel set with a foot pocket and blade already built.

Additionally, the two-piece construction enables the option of a full foot pocket in place of the usual open heel foot pocket for barefoot diving. You may quickly get ready to hit the water by disassembling the fin’s Socket-Lock Connecting System, replacing the open heel foot pocket with a complete foot pocket, and then reassembling. The entire foot pocket also has a re-profiled heel-retention cup to reduce slippage and chafing and is made of superior Monprene®

Knowing what you have is necessary before you can even diagnose a problem or figure out what kind of work your inflatable might need. You must first be informed that there are two different kinds of cloth available: PVC and Hypalon (CSM).

Due to the differences in their construction, each requires a unique approach to maintenance and repairs. As with so many maritime-related things, periodic checks of your boat will help you identify minor concerns before they turn into bigger ones. Like everything else, UV is the worst thing for PVC and Hypalon. Do a visual and rub your hands along the boat’s tubes to help find dry or cracked spots, “alligatoring”, but you will need to improve your UV protection.

To start your inspection, fill your spray bottle with liquid soap, pump the boat to specifications from the aft to the forward (drum tight), and then begin spraying. It will be more effective to set your spray nozzle to create a wide mist than a narrow jet. In both cases, make sure to soak the tubes thoroughly. Finding air bubbles is essential because they are a surefire indicator of leaks. Keep an eye out for valves, cones, and seams. Rarely are leaks cooperative enough to show up on a field of open tubes. Nope, they would much rather stand next to or even behind some fitting or label.

Check the cloth for wear, especially the tube tops. Where guys will sit with all their gear on, and it might rub holes or start to rub holes. They will eventually dry out and begin to leak. Check for wear on all the attachments and accessories. Some accessories will droop and chafe the tube fabric as the tubes deflate in colder conditions. Don’t forget to check the holders for the transom.

Look under the boat to inspect the bottom for wear, particularly to the areas around the transom and where strips connect it to the tubes. While you’re at it, grip the tube-to-hull strips directly to check for any fabric that may have come loose. Keep a close lookout for rot if your transom is made of wood.

Lastly, examine all the valves. Are all the caps present? The “plungers” are they free to move? It’s okay to spray a little more of the soap mixture while you’re rummaging around to clear out any sand or other debris that may have started to gather.

Before putting the boats away, give your tubes a UV treatment in addition to routine checks. Use a manufacturer-recommended UV protectant. There are several goods available.

Spray the boat down after every use and give it a good cleaning before you stow it away. Salt away is a great product to help get all the salt off the boat. Never leave an inflatable in the sun to the recommended pressure after filling it. This is especially true for PVC boats with glued seams since you could stress the seams and produce leaks (or worse). On the other hand, buzzing around while the tubes are not inflated to the proper pressure will undoubtedly ruin those handy transom holders. This is due to the outboard’s vibration, which will cause the tubes to start pulling away from the transom if they aren’t pushed tightly against its sides. Inflatable air chambers are divided by internal baffles that keep them apart in the event of an accident-punctured chamber. These baffles also balance the air pressure throughout all the chambers’ connections.

Underway repair You should always keep the following supplies on board: a hand pump, duct tape, ClamSeal, and some beach balls.

It isn’t much you can do if a boat is punctured below the water line besides pumping air using a hand pump to reduce the air leak. You can buy a ClamSeal for quick emergency repairs in torn inflatables.

Duct tape can temporarily repair punctures inside the boat that is in easily accessible areas. Before applying duct tape, the area around the puncture should be cleansed with acetone to ensure a proper seal. After that, you can pump air into the boat to slow the escaping air, allowing you to land as soon as possible. If a hole gets ripped in the sponson before you put the ClamSeal on, you can set the beach ball in there and inflate it when it is in there, which will help make the sponson more stable. Then try and close the hole with tape or a ClamSeal. On a side note, you can also use flex seal tape or other products. The downside is getting all the adhesive off that spot to repair the hole, but that is a dry land problem.

When conducting over-the-beach (OTB) operations, whether driving your boat onto the beach or being dropped off a couple hundred yards out and swimming/diving in. You will have to deal with the a mix of sand and salt water. The worst part is the microparticles of sand that will get into everything you bring over the beach. You will find sand in your ears and hair for a long time after you go over the beach. Going thru training, you would find sand in your hair on Sunday when you haven’t been near the beaches for days.

Starting with your gear prep and gear needed/ good to have.

Alice pack/ Pack prep

Make a loop of 1/2” webbing and have it weaved thru the top part of the ruck, do not just attach it to the frame. Put it around the padding, also. If the frame breaks, you won’t lose your gear. Have a carabiner on the loop; this way, if you need to repel or lift it to a helicopter or tie it in, have it. Use a locking aluminum one with tape on it to keep it from making noise. I like a locking one so you can close it, and it won’t lock onto anything you don’t want it to. I know you are saying, but it will get stuck closed. Not if you maintain it properly, you won’t have any problems. The one in the picture is a little long, but you should get the idea. I also use a bear knot; it is cleaner and will stay tied.

Next, take about a 6′-8′ of ½” webbing and have that attached to the same loop. I use that much, so I can get it away from me if needed, but I also have an extra line for repairing a shoulder strap or something. Also, if everyone has that much, you can use it to make fixed lines. It never hurts to have a light, strong cord with you. I like to use a small loop on the free end to make a girth hitch. This is used so you can put it around your hand so when you are swimming your ruck thru the surf or doing a river and stream crossing, you can let go of it if needed but also hold onto it if you are in control.

Do not put it around your wrist. If something happens and you get pulled down, you will not be able to let go of it. When it comes to gear or you, choose you. Make sure your pack has a good drain hold, so you are not carrying extra water with you and that it drains fast. If needed, add grommets to make the drain holes a little bigger. Lastly, always have some 550 cord in the bottom of your pack; you can always use it. The last thing I like to do is with all my bags I will use at night. I hang a tiny keychain Nitize microlight at the top of the bag; I put it on a retractable keychain leash so I can look around in my bag at night. I am about making life more accessible, which significantly helps. This is key when you are on a boat and are rocking and looking for a hat or something.

Ruck liner

The field pack liner is intended to be used as a liner for field pack to hold items other than subsistence items that must be protected from moisture. The liner is also designed as a flotation device for the individual carrying the field pack. The liner is fabricated of olive green 106 nylon cloth coated with polyurethane pigmented olive green 207. The coated side of the fabric is on the outside of the liner. I love the liner as it is easy to open and close, and it always works like a champ. No matter what you are doing, have a liner in your pack to keep things dry. Yup, even in the desert, it will help keep your gear clean and as sand free as it could be in that place.

MSR gear makes water storage bladders; it is always good to have a way to store extra water. You never know how far you will go to find water; take as much as you can carry as you don’t know when you will find more. (This is also depending on location and time of year) But they are also great for floatation. They are made from a heavy fabric, making them hard to break. They are great if your bag might be a little heavy, and you might be a little worried about swimming it in and you want more lift.

You should always have a poncho with you. It can be used as a ranger raft for crossing bodies of water. A ranger raft is excellent for keeping your ruck/pack into the beach and for any water crossing to keep all your gear dry, including your ruck. The one downside is you are rapping your bag in the poncho, so you can’t use the shoulder straps. So, it’s not the best idea to use it for OTBs. They have a way to waterproof it, and they make heavy-duty type waterproof storage bags; they are great for storing your poncho when not in use and reusable.

Do a good float check; that means soaking your bag in the water with the gear you intend to have when you go over the beach. Make sure your gear can float itself. You float you, and your gear should float on its own. Don’t think, “oh, I am a good swimmer I can just tuff it out; we are only swimming 100 yards “. First, as a former Boat guy and Team guy (yes, there is a difference), it’s never just 100 yards; always plan for the worst.

Fins, I like the SCUBAPRO Go Sports. They are light, have a ton of power, and have a big foot pocket that you can fit most combat-type boots. They are light enough that if you must carry them in the field, you can also. They have a bungee heal strap, making donning and doffing easy, so you are not fighting with them in the surf zone trying to get it on or off. I use a fin strap system that has two Fastens. I put the male on one fin and the female on the other. This way, I can clip them to each other, which makes it easier to carry them. I can also use it to hang them on the bottom of the ladder when doing ship boarding. I also have a male and female on each shoulder of my H-gear/ body armor. With the male and female on different fins, it allows me to attach them. It is also less of a snag hazard than having a loop of 550 cord on your fins. I also don’t have to carry a carabiner for just my fins.

When it comes to your other gear like boots and what to wear, this will all depend on where you are doing this and what time of year. In the winter, you will have a lot more gear. I will talk about all that stuff in a later article.