The SCUBAPRO X Black BCD is new to the BCD line this year. It is SCUBALabs Tester choice best new BCD for 2020. So, as SCUBAPRO continues to move forward in the Military and Public Safety market it was an obvious chose to start this year by adding Molly to the newest member of the SCUABPRO Family.

The SCUBAPRO X Black Tactical is a front-adjustable BCD that comes equipped with SCUBAPRO AIR2 V Gen Breathable Inflator. It also has SCUABPRO’s exclusive AirFlex system, basically it helps simplifies buoyancy control and helps guarantee an extremely stable dive. It has a Super Cinch tank buckle system that locks the tank in for maximum stability at depth. It can also be converted to use twin tanks. Quick-release integrated weight pouches ditch quickly and easily and secure with buckles.

Each weight pocket holds up to 12 lbs. (5.44 kg) of hard block or soft pouch lead weights. Two optional rear trim pouches allow you to achieve a well-balanced level position. Each rear weight pocket holds up to 4 lbs. (1.8 kg) of hard block or soft pouch lead weights.

Built-in grommets provide attachment points for a knife or they can be used to secure gear to. Three large zippered pockets and a zippered cummerbund pouch provide lots of cargo-carrying capability. Eight aluminum D-rings, four large and pre-bent, provide convenient clip-on points for extra gear. The BCD has multiple adjustments for a perfect fit, including torso adjustable shoulder straps, adjustable sternum and waist straps all equipped with squeeze-style” side release buckles for ease of donning and doffing.

The waist strap is also equipped with a comfortable cummerbund. There is a right shoulder and right lower rear over-pressure relief/pull-dump valves, both equipped with pull cords for ease of trimming buoyancy. Built to be durable, and extremally stable, the X-Black Tactical can handle even the most aggressive diving. It is constructed from a combination of durable 1000 denier and 420 denier nylon for long-term wear. Adjustable cummerbund compensates for suit compression, ensuring a snug fit at varying depths. Non-rotating quick-release shoulder buckles optimize strap routing to maximize fit. AirNet backpack is water-draining and comfortable during long dives. 

The SCUBAPRO AIR2’s are an air balanced power inflator that provides smooth and reliable inflation at all tank pressures. Single hose configuration eliminates the need for a separate alternate air source. Innovative dive/pre-dive switch enables you to detune the unit when not in use, eliminating free flows. Self-flushing mechanism requires just one push on the purge to clear away all dirt. The regulator mechanism is a simple, yet reliable classic downstream demand valve. The AIR2 is equipped with an ergonomic mouthpiece with large bit tabs, soft second-stage cover and one button purge function. The regulator’s pre-tuned system is housed in a precision molded carbon fiber and techno-polymer impact resistant design that weighs 6.7 oz. (190 g). Nitrox compatible up to 40% out of the box. The demand valve is chrome plated brass with a stainless-steel spring and a silicone rubber diaphragm and exhaust valve. The Air 2 comes with a 3/8″ threaded 27.56″ (70 cm) high-flow low-pressure hose and owner’s manual. CE certified (EN250A — greater than 10°C/50°F warm water test controls) as a second stage regulator.

For more information please contact Ed Rasmussen  ecrazz@clannfive.com  

Finning is the process of generating propulsion. In that sense, it is probably the most basic of all the diving skills, and one that most of us are already able to do when we first start diving.

In particular, a better finning technique, choosing the right technique for the right circumstances, can increase your dive’s efficiency.

This will decrease your air consumption, reduce physical fatigue, and extending your dives. Picking the right finning technique will also decrease the amount of silt you turn up. I am going to talk about four types of SCUBAPRO fins. The Jet fin, the Seawing Nova Gorilla, The Seawing Nova, and the Go Sport fins. The Jet Fin is the most wildly used fin in the world by profession divers, the SeaWing Nova, the SeaWing Nova Gorillas (a stiffer version of the Seawing Nova that is great for people that who are strong kickers). The Go Sport fin is new to our line and is a tremendous all-around fin for diving, surface swimming like OTB and River and Stream crossing. Lastly are the Twin Jet fins, again a SCUBAPRO iconic fin; it is used by strong kickers that like to use a flutter kick type stroke.

There are three main fin kicks that any diver should know. These are flutter kicks, frog kicks, and bent-knee cave diver kicks.

Flutter kicks

The flutter kick is the basic finning technique that most divers use. This technique is similar to the leg part of freestyle swimming.

Watch 90 percent of all divers, and you’ll see them use flutter kicks. In the early days of diving, it was the only technique taught. The reason for its popularity is quite simply that it is the strongest of all the kicking techniques, and it generates a lot of propulsion. Back in the early days of diving, before the invention of the BCD, speed was the primary way of maintaining buoyancy. The advantage of this kick is the forcefulness of it. It is excellent for moving at high speed or when fighting a current. The legs’ vertical up-down movement also means it is beneficial for wall diving, mainly when diving by a wall covered in corals. There’s less risk of kicking something on the side of you like your dive buddy, coral or the finning’s backwash, stirring up sediment. The disadvantages of this kick are related to the advantages. The forcefulness of the kick means that it is relatively strenuous and increases air consumption because of it. The vertical movement can steer up a lot of silt; this is bad for many reasons. If you are on a combat swimmer operation, the trail of silt can give you away. Second, it will make it hard for anyone following you to see their gauges and find the target. (unless you are using the SCUBAPRO HUD dive computer) (shameless plug, but it is excellent for low visibility). In confined spaces like close to the target around the piers or in a cave, it can cause a blackout and make it very hard to see what you are doing.

A fast, powerful technique is useful when fighting a current, for short bursts of speed. The best fins for this are the SCUBAPRO SeaWing Nova Gorillas, The Go Sports, and the Jet fans.

Frog kick

The frog kick looks very similar to the leg portion of the breaststroke from swimming. A large and wide kick that utilizes the leg’s full strength is a good, general technique for open-water diving, either in the water column or close to the bottom. Because the movement and propulsion aren’t continuous, good buoyancy technique is required, though.

The movement here is horizontal, or close to it, meaning that there is minimal disturbance of the bottom when swimming close to the bottom, which will maintain the visibility for any divers that come after you. However, the kick’s width means that the kick isn’t recommended for caves or when diving close to a wall.

This kick, combined with good buoyancy, will quickly become your go-to technique once you get used to it, and will likely decrease your air consumption significantly. The more adequately trimmed your position in the water, and the more you take advantage of the gliding phase before initiating the next kick, the more you’ll reduce your energy (and air) consumption.

The powerful kick that can be extremely efficient, especially if you master the kick-and-glide aspect. Suitable for open-water diving in mild currents, in the water column, or close to the bottom. Not advisable in stronger currents or close to walls.

The best fins for this are the Jet fins.

Bent-Knee Cave Diver Kick

With the complicated name, this technique is the go-to technique for technical divers and is the one that causes the least disturbance of the environment. The bent knees mean that the movement is minimal, with the entire kick coming only from a small movement in the hips, combined with a kick of the ankles. This means that propulsion is limited, compared to the two kicks above, but it also decreases strain and air consumption.

The small movement means that it works well in cramped areas, such as inside wrecks and caves, and, when executed correctly, can minimize the amount of silt kicked up to almost nothing. For this reason, it is also the recommended technique for diving close a very silty bottom, like in a confined space, close to piers or around ships.

The slow movement also means that this technique helps you slow down, making it useful for muck dives or other nature dives where you’ll be looking for small animal life. Because it is a very low-propulsion kick, this technique has its limitation when swimming against a current, though. This is a minimal-impact kick that is ideal for cramped environments and close to very silty bottoms, as well as helping you slow down during your dives and maximize your available air. The Jet Fin is the best fin this, and with some practice, the Go Sport is good also.

Lastly, the SeaWing Nova Gorillas come in OD Green or Orange, but they can be special ordered in all black. You can also order the SeaWing Nova in all black. Special orders require a minimum of 24 per size, but we can work to get you want you need.

Contact ecrazz@clannfive.com for more information.

An essential part of preparing for each dive is calculating the amount of weight you’ll need to ascend and descend safely and effectively. By gearing up in the correct amount of weight, you can successfully maintain neutral buoyancy throughout the dive.

Many factors can affect your buoyancy—your body composition, the equipment and clothing worn, the amount of air you’re breathing, and the water you’ll be swimming in (freshwater/saltwater). Being able to add weights to your dive belt or in the pockets of your BCD can help you minimize drag and make your finning more efficient.

Proper weighting and buoyancy control are crucial if you want to have a successive dive. Unfortunately,there is no extract formula to help say how much weight you should wear on any giving dive. The reason for this is no one is exactly alike. So, all you can really rely on is knowledge and practice, I will say this a couple times a good log will help more then you will know. This goes for anything you do. Always keep a logbook, for land warfare, over the beach, and as much as you can. This will help when it has been a couple of months in between doing things. To help make it easier, below are a few easy steps you can take, preferably with the assistance of a dive weight calculator. Find a formula that works for you and stick to that, but make sure you test yourself before each dive. Also keep a dive log of all your dives. (See told you I would say this a lot) Write down what you wore, what way was the current going to you have to kick harder, were you carrying anything extra like a ladder or breaching tools, and how you felt. Make sure you have water temp, wetsuit thickness, and other information like that. This will go a long way to helping with future dives.

Weigh Yourself and your Gear

A rough approximation of the weight you’ll need can be figured out quickly by weighing yourself and then using those numbers to figure out the amount of weight you’ll need on you. 

In freshwater, most divers need 6 to 8 percent of their body weight in added weight, but in saltwater (which is denser and will add buoyancy), this figure is closer to 8 to 10 percent. This number is a good starting point to calculate your weight amount further.

Part of determining your body weight is weighing your buoyancy compensator (BCD), dive jacket/ Rebreather. It is a significant source of buoyancy as most of them, especially older models, have a lot of padding that will make you float.

To determine the buoyancy of your gear, immerse it in water and release any air that might be trapped inside. Move it around underwater when you float test it, same as when you get into the water make sure you get all the air out so there are no bubbles, halfway thru your dive.

Test Your Weight

Go through a trial run in a swimming pool and wear all of your dive gear. If you can’t wear your full equipment, make sure to put on the closest approximation to what you’ll be wearing for the specific dive. Remember that if your dive is going to be in saltwater, you’ll need a bit more weight compared to a freshwater swimming pool. 

Here it is broken down.

1. Before the dive, float motionless in deep water.

2. Deflate all the air out of your BCD/ Rebreather.

3. Take a normal breath and hold it.

4. If you start sinking – you need less weight. If you find yourself bobbing out of the water – you need more weight.

5. Repeat the process until you are floating as close as possible to eye level.

6. If you are floating at eye level with all you gear on, that is what you want. Have weights by the side of the pool so you can add or subtract weight as you check yourself out. They make weights with snap links or have weights with some 550. Have a carabiner so you can hang them on your weight belt or if you have a weight belt with pockets, you can add or subtract weights as you need. Lastly, a good logbook can go a long way to help with what you will need.  

Use a Dive Weight Calculator

While manually figuring out the right amount of dive weights to gear up in works for many divers, others find it easier to use an actual calculator. Try using a SCUBA diving weight calculator. You’ll be able to find tons of calculator websites online. Enter the figures for the required fields and check if the suggested amount of weight works for you.  

www.divestock.com/calc/weight/weight

Take 10% of your body weight in lead

A common rule of thumb, adhered by many divers, claims that a diver must carry weights equivalent to 10% of his body weight. While that does give you a specific range of the number of weights you need, it does not take many relevant factors into account. 

Factors such as muscle, fat, height, gear, and exposure suit are crucial when choosing weights and should be taken into account. For example, muscles sink and fat floats. A muscular man weighing 180lbs would probably need much less than 18 pounds of weight (even with a long 5mm), whereas a short stalky fellow weighing 180lbs might actually need more than 18lbs. This rule has led to many overweighted divers.

Don’t be overweight!

Many newer divers, and even some of the more experienced ones, dive with too much weight, either consciously or without knowing. Being overweight can lead to some bad situations. Sinking too fast is a common cause for ear problems. Now if you are overweight, you will add air to your BCD, now when you head to the surface to take a peek you will be pushed up faster than you want to go. You will also feel like you have to swim fast all the time, to stop yourself from sinking, and you will breath more air then your swim buddy.

Too much weight will also affect your body position, sinking your lower body and causing you to swim up. Even if you do manage to balance yourself properly, you will have much more drag through the water. Swimming downward for half of the dive does not look cool and looking cool is half (or more) the job.

You should always know your pace, you will want to know how far each kick takes you, or you will want to see if it is the same as it has always been. If you have not been in the water in a long time or you have new fins. Here is how you go about finding/ checking your pace. It is basically the same as you would for checking your pace on land.  

 You will need to have a place you can do this. Next to a pier is a great place, as it will help save some steps. You will need the following gear.

• One hundred yards of line or you can use a wall that is that long. You will still want to mark it. You will need.
• A compass/ Navigation Board
• A stopwatch
• A slate so you can write your times down.

It would is best if you put markers on the line to help mark your time and pace, generally at the quarter, the halfway, and three quarters. This way, it will give you an idea of how fast you are going and help you to adjust if needed. Put something that floats, so that way, you can see it if the bottom gets steered up. Cyamlights, in a Gatorade bottle, works well for this. Secure the line to the bottom. If you have access to something stationary like a pier or dock, it makes it more comfortable to follow along with it. Ensure both ends are as secure as possible because some people tend to pull on the rope while doing this. It may be easier if you can keep your line close to the bottom (not always possible) because it’s easier to identify if the rope is relatively horizontal to the bottom as compared to in free water. Try to set up your rope parallel to any current, although it is best to do this in an area where the currents are mild. 

Swim normally from one end to the other while counting your kicks. When you reach the end of the rope, write down the number of kicks you did on your slate. Naturally, repeat this several times. Some people do this exercise at double their average speed because they are task-focused, but this is not a realistic representation of how you would typically dive. Like doing your pace on land, you can count every time your left foot goes up or your right or both. If you are only counting one, then you might tend to push harder on the leg. So be aware of that. Use the stopwatch to adjust how long this takes you. You want to do the 100yards in 3 min.  

Do this at least twice so you can average between swimming into the current with swimming with the current. The more time you do this, the better and you are more likely to relax, the more you do it.  

Now, take the average of all of your samples and divide that number into the distance traveled. If you averaged 50 kicks to go 100 yards along the line, each fin kick you make averages just over seven and a half feet in distance traveled. This will help with any time you need to cover a certain distance. You will also want to do this if you are using things you have not used before. For example, if you are carrying heavier gear, a Ladder with a hook for breaching gear or a waterproof bag.